Monday, November 14, 2011

BIG BEND p. 173: SPRAGUE

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SPRAGUE

Sprague, the second in size of the present towns of Lincoln County, lies in a deep valley, in conformation so narrow that it might be appropriately denominated a coulee. This entire valley is bordered by steep ledges of black, volcanic rock. In 1889 there were neither trees nor gardens within the, then, busy and compact city. And what little could be seen beyond the basaltic rocks certainly did not suggest agriculture as a very important asset. But were one to drive northward he would have come out on a fine, high, rolling plateau ; the soil consisting of a rich, brown loam. At the present writing handsome shade trees line most of the streets, especially in the residence portion of the town, which is noted for its fine lawns, well dressed and in excellent condition.

In compiling this History of Lincoln County it has seldom been necessary to refer to dates prior to the latter part of the 70's. It was then that the very earliest settlers came to the country. Before that period it was something of a Utopia — unknown except to a comparatively few explorers. However, we learn that as early as 1839 a party headed by that earnest pioneer missionary. Rev. Cushman Eells, visited the site where now stands the city of Sprague. Undoubtedly this was the first company of white people to camp on Lincoln county soil. The data for this interesting history is a letter written by Rev. Eells to a lady in Sprague, under date of January 12, 1892: Following is an extract from this epistle:

"On the afternoon of the 14th of March, 1839, Rev. Elkanah Walker, wife and baby boy, Mrs. Eells and myself camped at the westernmost of three springs near the present site of the city of Sprague. On the next morning as the animals were being caught, Mr. Walker was injured by the kick of a horse. The result was camp did not move that day. The weather was line. I walked in the direction of the present city. The occasion was favorable for meditation and the prayer-fitting preparation for the work we were soon to enter upon. Please take a leap over forty-three years and one month. If I mistake not, on the 14th of April, 1882, 1 conducted a preaching service in Sprague. The chapel was the dining room of a small hotel presided over by Mrs. Baker. My understanding is that that was the first service of the kind ever held in that city."

Patrick Cumasky, who took up a homestead in 1869, was the first settler in the locality of Sprague. He was followed in 1871 by Patrick- Wallace and in 1872 by William Burrow, colloquially known as "Hoodoo Billy." When a small settlement began to spring up in 1879, in anticipation of the advent of the Northern Pacific Railway, the place was given the name of "Hoodooville," in honor of Mr. Burrow. During 1878-9, many parties were attracted to the vicinity of Sprague and by them much speculation was indulged in as to the prospective towns to be built along the line of the oncoming railroad, then represented by grade stakes. Among the first of these parties was one in which I.. E. Kellogg, at that period a resident of Colfax, Whitman County, was a member. At present Mr. Kellogg is auditor of Douglas County.

Prior to the construction of the Northern Pacific Railway through the Territory of Washington, the country surrounding the spot where the town of Sprague later made its appearance was inhabited by only a limited number of settlers. The only place of any importance in the vicinity where these hardy pioneers could secure provisions was the then small town of Walla Walla. There the United States government had established a military post, garrisoned by a fair complement of regular soldiers. They were stationed there to guard settlers from Indian depredations and also to keep open channels of communication between them and the outer world. But the town of Sprague was not fairly launched on municipal life until the summer of 1880. The work

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of grading the Northern Pacific road was begun at Ainsworth, at the mouth of the Snake River, in 1879; the work of completing the road to the spot where Sprague is located required over a year. .

One of the exemplary rules established by the Northern Pacific Company at the time it was building its road through Washington was that no liquor should be sold within one mile of the proposed line of track. In June, 1880, E. M. Kinnear and Patrick Wallace opened a saloon to accommodate the men employed in grading the road, at a point just one mile north of where Sprague now stands. To this day the place is known as "Whiskey Rock." At this point the saloon nourished until the ban against such resorts in Sprague was removed. The first building erected upon ground which is now within the corporate limits of Sprague was put up by the Northern Pacific Company for the storage of grain and commissary stores. This was in June, 1880. Later this building was utilized for a number of years as a livery stable. It was located on Railroad Avenue. The commissary store was conducted by Edwin Dane, who was a time-keeper in the employ of the railroad company. Shortly afterward he engaged in business for himself and opened a second store, but did not long remain thereafter. The railway commissary storehouse was merely a temporary affair, intended to supply the wants of the graders in the company's employ. To E. M. Kinnear belongs the honor of being the pioneer business man of Sprague. In July, 1880, he erected a store building and stocked it with a small assortment of goods. Mr. Kinnear came from Colfax, where, it is said, he operated a peanut stand for a short period. His Sprague business expanded until he had an establishment of mammoth proportions within a few years. Until the railway came he freighted his stock in from Colfax. The same year Willis Misner opened a blacksmith shop.

The year 1880 did not witness an abnormal growth in the town. The railroad graders were about the only people from whom to derive support, the country not yet being settled to any appreciable extent. Still, even the graders contrived to add to "the gaiety of nations," and they livened up the town. During this year the town site was surveyed by Dr. Miller and the plat was filed with the auditor of Spokane County December 27, 1880, by the Northern Pacific Railway Company, per Walter Sprague.  The new town had been named in honor of General John W. Sprague, who from 1879 to 1883 was in charge of the Northern Pacific Company's interests on the Pacific coast, as general superintendent, assistant treasurer and land commissioner. Mr. Sprague died in Tacoma, December 24, 1893. Among those who settled in the new town in 18S0, or who had previously come to the vicinity, were Patrick Wallace, William Burrow, Commodore Downs, H. L. White, James N.Campbell, Patrick Cumasky, Frank Sturgis, David Vinyard, Edwin Dane, E. M. Kinnear, Dr. Miller and others.

The spring of 1881 witnessed the arrival of new enterprises in the young city. The railroad became a finality. The rails were laid into town Sunday, May 16th. Shortage of material had considerably delayed the arrival of the road and during the winter work had been interrupted. Let us glance at the town at this date. There were then the two small general stores of E. M. Kinnear and Edwin Dane, a livery stable conducted by Patrick Wallace, a boarding house in a tent presided over by a Mr. Brown, and another of which Mrs. O'Toole was the landlady, two saloons, one owned by Patrick Dillon; the other by Alfred Rickett, conducted by William H. White, and a blacksmith shop owned by Willis Misner.

During the construction of the Northern Pacific Railway, and for some time subsequently, Sprague was a typical western city; high carnival ruled at all hours; the town grew like Jonah's gourd. The prominent factor in

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this "boom" was the location there of railroad headquarters. Handsome residences and substantial business houses were erected; prosperity was in evidence on every side. With the wonderful development of the surrounding country business expanded; Sprague developed into a city of prominence. The advent of the railroad was the signal for increased activity. Residents of Sprague at that transition period tell us that the amount of stock shipped from the town during 1881 was something enormous. Sheep raising was carried on to some extent by a number of parties in the vicinity, and all seemed to be seized with a desire to patronize the new railway. The company immediately erected its depot and selected Sprague as the location for the railway shops for the Idaho division. Work on these was at once commenced and about 350 men were employed on the shops, round houses, etc. Officials of the road looking after its interests built handsome homes for themselves, thus contributing to the town an appearance of permanency. The erection of these beautiful residences by the railway officials enters largely into the history of Sprague and a chapter might be written profitably on this one subject. But many of these officials were subsequently placed on trial charged with appropriating the company's material for their homes. It was alleged that the lumber which was supposed to have been used in the company's buildings had been surreptitiously utilized by employees. Northern Pacific stone was used in the foundations; Northern Pacific bricks for chimneys; Northern Pacific paint found its way on to the outside and inside of buildings while men drawing pay from the Northern Pacific Company were employed in the construction of private buildings. It is claimed that from ten to fifteen houses were thus constructed; the trial of the predatory officials was a landmark in Sprague's history. Yet no one was convicted.

As with many other towns one of the original institutions in Sprague was the brewery, established in 1881. In that year R. O. Porak and Charles V. Rasch came overland in a prairie schooner from The Dalles, Oregon, and both at once entered into business, Mr. Rasch engaging in a saloon enterprise while Mr. Porak directed his attention to the brewing of beer. "The Kettle," which at this time composed this primitive brewery, was placed between two rocks; the institution was in working order. The product of this little establishment met with a ready sale and the owner, carefully husbanding his profits, enlarged the plant. Within a few years he was established in a stone and brick building.

While there was considerable activity in the new town it was not until about May, 1882, that the postal authorities saw fit to grant Sprague a post office.  J. J. Burns was made postmaster.  The second general store (Mr. Dane having gone out of business) to be opened in Sprague was one owned by Gehres & Hertrich. These gentlemen had selected a location during the winter of 1881-2, and in March they arrived with their goods, opening up for business on the 28th of that month. When they arrived the snow had melted; the town site was covered with water. Unloading their stock near the present depot site they packed them through the inundation to the store building. Victor Hertrich, alluding to the opening of their business, says that the first sale made was that of a suit of clothes to David Vinyard.

April 20, 1882, the new railroad shops were opened by an elaborate ball. Pioneers of the town well remember this momentous event.  On that day the town was visited by a "cold snap." The ground was covered by four inches of snow; the thermometer registered ten degrees below zero. There is no disputing the fact that these shops were responsible for the future prominence of Sprague in Lincoln County. Else Sprague would never have been recognized in the 80's and early 90's as the “best town in eastern Washington."  Several

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hundred thousands of dollars were expended by the Northern Pacific Company in improvements in this young city. In the extensive shops repair work for the entire Idaho division was done; for a certain period all cars were constructed at this point; old cars and engines overhauled and rebuilt. From the date of the establishment of the shops until 1895 the payroll of the Northern Pacific Company here averaged fully $30,000 per month.

The first celebration of Independence Day ever held in Lincoln County occurred in Sprague, July 4, 1882. Hon. W. H. Smallwood was orator, and George S. Brooke, president, of the day.  W. H. Carr served as chief of police. Prayer was offered by Rev. G. W. Shaw. Even at this early day Sprague boasted of a brass band and a competent glee club. In 1882 the first hotel — the National — was erected by Brown & Dane. This year also witnessed the establishment of the first school with a roll of about thirty scholars, and the first church, the Episcopalian. This house of prayer was built by popular subscription, led by Y. W. Sanders. Its erection amply demonstrates the proverbial push and energy of the citizens of Sprague. R. R. Jones was the contractor. The timbers were framed on Saturday evening, and on Sunday morning all the able-bodied men in town worked on the building. That forenoon the edifice was completed and in the afternoon services were held. During the latter part of 1882 the first newspaper, the Sprague Herald, was established. December 13th, of the same year a volunteer fire department was organized. It was a hook and ladder company, the first of the kind in the Territory of Washington north of the Snake river, and east of the Cascade mountains. John Bartol served as the first president and for, many years he remained at the head of the Sprague fire department, and was, in fact, for a number of vears the oldest pioneer, and now historic, organization, before the hose carts and other appartus were added, consisting solely of a hook and ladder truck, and a small band of determined men, successfully combatted two fires in the early history of the town which threatened the total destruction of the place. Upon the organization of the department Master Mechanic Jonathan Evans was elected chief and J. N. Campbell, assistant. No active part was taken by Mr. Evans as he was prevented from doing so by his duties with the Northern Pacific Company.  Full responsibility fell upon the shoulders of Mr. Campbell.

The company organized December 13, 1882. The following month the hook and ladder truck was purchased from the Portland, Oregon, fire department, the members of the company assisted by a few other citizens, paying for the apparatus. Its cost in Portland was $450, the freight to Sprague, $50. Later, upon the complete organization of the company of fire fighters, it was presented to the city. A complete list of the members of this company is not in existence. Eight of them, who for a number of years were closely identified with the organization, were John Bartol, J. N. Campbell, A. S. Hughes, Ed. Pendleton, Benjamin Ettleson, C. M. Rasch, David Vinyard and W. F. Murray. Other members who served with distinction during the 80's were H. C. Smith, C. M. Samson, W. J. Slattery, P. Beardsley, George Beardsley, Fred Cooper, T. Foley and T. N. Murphy. With the growth of the town it became necessary to add other apparatus, and two hose carts were purchased, thus completing the organization of Hose Companies Nos. 1 and 2.

The city of Sprague was incorporated under a charter enacted by the Legislative Assembly of the Territory of Washington. It was approved by the governor November 28, 1883. This charter provided for the government of the city by a mayor and six councilmen to be elected by the people for a term of one year, to serve without pay. It provided, also, for a marshal to be elected by the people, and a justice of the peace and assessor to be chosen

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by the city council. The officials named in the act were George S. Brooke, mayor; E. M. Kinnear, William A. Fairweather, R. O. Porak, B. B. Glasscock, L. A. Conlee and Patrick Wallace councilmen. That year the city government was organized. Martin J. Maloney was elected the first marshal and Frank Wilson was selected to serve as justice of the peace. At the time of this incorporation the city contained a population of about five hundred people. Of the town at about this period (1882) the Herald said, under date of May 25, 1892:

Although Sprague in the early 8o's was the largest town and the best business point in northern Washington, still it enjoyed for a long time the unenviable distinction of being an undesirable place for residence; of having the worst site and environments; and being the poorest built and most shaggy place this side of the mountains. And all this was true to a considerable extent, for railroad officials, having no other object in view, fixed upon the site as the most advantageous and best adapted one for division headquarters and the location of their machine shops, and not being troubled with any aesthetic taste, they were oblivious to the picturesqueness of the shores of Lake Colville, and quite indifferent about the once rugged surface of the town site in this coulee, or its craggy surroundings. What tended further to excite such comment in connection with the natural disadvantages we had to begin with was the general aspect of the place when nearly a thousand people were swarming about the busy hive; for aside from there not being a green tree, or shrub or flower, or blade of grass within the corporate limits, the streets of this at one time 'City of Rocks' were all ungraded and in horrible condition, and outside of the then imposing headquarters, the huge machine shops and a few business houses, nearly all places of resilience were one-story frame structures of most unprepossessing appearance, and well calculated to evoke a broad smile from the passersby, as well as the unfavorable impressions which were so common.

Beginning with the establishment of the railroad shops in 1882 there had always existed an element of uncertainty in the growth and prosperity of Sprague, arising chiefly from doubt and speculation concerning the permanence of division headquarters. Yet despite this quasi-uneasiness the town improved, grew and prospered until it became, as said by the Herald, the best town of its size in the Territory of Washington, and probably unsurpassed by any other city of 2,500 inhabitants on the Pacific coast. Its enterprises were always directed by a class of business men who never contemplated defeat in any undertaking to which they might put their hands. The momentous county seat fight of 1884 has been voluminously treated in another chapter of this work. Of Sprague, as it appeared to him in 1884, Mr. Frank M. Winship, for many years editor of the Sprague Herald, writing in January, 1889, said:

We landed in Sprague early in 1884, shortly after the days of tents and "dugouts," and at a time when her citizens were beginning to think of something more than a mere camping outfit. Some good, substantial buildings were then taking the places of temporary structures, and it seemed as though Sprague was destined to make rapid strides toward becoming the metropolis of eastern Washington.  But as time slipped by and we failed to see improvements in the business portion of the city, which her growth and natural surroundings demanded, we were at a loss to know how it was that firms doing the immense amount of business that many of them were should he contented to transact their business in old shells that would hardly shield their goods from inclement weather. We have sometimes been amused while standing in front of some of our business houses carrying stocks of goods worth from $50,000 to $60,000 to note what little attempt was advertise the business of these firms. We have seen from time to time in the show windows of these same firms a beautiful conglomeration of disorder in the matter of displaying their goods. For instance, we have noticed boots and shoes, gaudy beads, dry goods, apples, potatoes and onions all together on one string.  Was this because the proprietors supposed that only

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Siwashes would see their display, or was it lack of taste and enterprise on the part of our business men?
We have solved this query as follows: Many of our business men came here when Sprague was only a railroad camp and started their enterprises on a small scale and built up large commercial interests and were satisfied to ply their avocations in buildings wholly at variance with the growth and demands of their trade, and making the prosperity of their city a secondary consideration, content while they, themselves, were accumulating fortunes, to let the city take care of herself. Some of these same old fogies have even gone so far as to discourage parties desiring to locate here by telling them that business was dull and everything was being overdone, when in truth there was not a business man in the city who was not making money. We are glad to note that within the last two years this great evil has been, in a large measure, overcome. Some of the old fogies have left and men of enterprise have come in, and those of the old ones who remain see the necessity of keeping pace with the times. Many new buildings have been erected that would be a credit to any city, and with those in contemplation, in another year the business portion of the town will wear quite a metropolitan air.

June 28, 1886, the city of Sprague voted on the question whether or no intoxicating liquors should be sold within her corporate limits. The result was favorable to the "wet" element, the vote being: For prohibition, 90; against, 283.

Lincoln County's original flouring mill was erected at Sprague in 1887. Pledges from farmers were secured by the promoters to furnish 50,000 bushels of wheat. A considerable portion of this pledged wheat came from a distance of 35 or 40 miles. Huffman & Stevens were the proprietors of this enterprise. It is averred that every bushel of wheat grown in 1887 between the Columbia River and Rock Creek was marketed at this mill, totaling exactly 52,000 bushels. In this connection it is interesting to note that this same territory in 1901 yielded at least 12,000,000 bushels. During the spring of 1887 a cavalry company known as Troop A was enrolled, an organization destined to play an important part in the town's history, and one in which the people of Sprague took great pride. Following were the members, officers and privates of Troop A, as furnished by Sergeant Bartol shortly after organization:

E. G. Pendleton, captain; R. G. Paddock, first lieutenant; Thomas O'Brien, second lieutenant; John Bartol, first sergeant; J. N. Campbell, second sergeant; M. P. Murphy, third sergeant; Wallace Mount, fourth sergeant; W. T. Murray, first corporal; W. F. Brown, second corporal; Thomas Meagher, third corporal; Charles A. Hagen, fourth corporal.
Privates— B. F. Burton, G. S. Brooke, A. B. Brooke, J. J. Burns, John Bracken, Thomas Block, S. A. Conlee, John Cody, George Case, Len Curtis, George Cosgrove, James Dillon, J. P. Deredesheimer, P.Dencer, H. W. Fairweather, James Fairburn, F. M. Gray, David Higgins, J. J. Harris, W. Hinshaw, A. S. Hughes, S. G. Jackson, O. C. Jensen, John Palmer, A. Schneider, W. S. Specklmire, J. S. Smith, Thomas Smith, W. J. Slattery, George M. Fray, G. A. Wood, L. A. Winney, T. A. Wickham, P. Wallace, B. B. White, H. W. Brooke, G. S. Johnson, G. R. Klnick, J. W. Kelly, W. B. Lottman, I. G. McGinnis, H. T. Murray, J. J. Maloney, J. W. Miller, M. S. Weeks, S. Newman, R. M. Porter, William Pea, W. F. Robertson, Frank Ringuit. Knox Johnson, Charles B. Johnson, Willis Kinder, H. McGinnis, S. P. McGinnis, M. Mullett, M. J. Maloney, S. G. McMillan, Ira G. Nelson, W. H. Olds, W. P. Putman, F. M. Quinlan, L. P. Reardon, T. S. Roodman, R. D. Rairdon.

In the election for officers of Troop A, in May, 1888, the following candidates were successful: Charles B. Johnson, captain; B. B. Glasscock, first lieutenant; Dr. Smith, second lieutenant. In this capacity Captain Johnson served for many years.

A Sprague citizen, writing of the improvements in his town in September, 1887, said:

I want to have a little general talk about our improvements under way and prospective, to show that our sister city, Spokane Falls, hasn't got it all her own way. To start with is the new mill, the brick and stone foundation of which is already up. The building will ' be 36X4S feet in size, three stories and basement. The capacity of this mill will be 75 barrels per day. The warehouse already up is 30x70 feet. An engine room will be built, the engine to be 35-horse power. The town council is receiving plans for putting in a system of water pipes and sewers. Plans are also being received for establishing a system of electric lights. Another industry talked of here is a foundry. As a shipping point Sprague stands second between Helena, Montana, and Wallula Junction. Transactions at the

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depot average about $25,000 per month, and this season over one-half million pounds of wool were shipped from here, and this business is increasing yearly. Building improvements are very brisk. Three dwellings, those of Messrs. J. H. Shields, Frank Gheres and William Dittenhoefer, will cover $14,000 finished. It is safe to place the amount at $75,000 which is being spent in building operations.

Saturday morning, November 13, 1887, Sprague was visited by a fire which destroyed four buildings. The losers were Miss Callan, millinery; Thomas McAllister, harness store; Jones & Nygard, furniture, and Mclnnis, photographer. All carried insurance with the exception of Mr. Mclnnis. In addition to the destruction of her store Miss Callan lost considerable money which was in a trunk that was burned.

In the beginning of the year 1889 Sprague was a busy town of 1,600 people. She exhibited positive evidence of prosperity in the improvements of her streets; the erection of brick business blocks; in her large public school and court house. Here was located a Catholic school (St. Joseph's Academy), and many men found lucrative employment in the railroad shops. Sprague was the principal headquarters for the Idaho division of the Northern Pacific Railway Company, and the company had a large, handsome building for the use of its officials. A brewery using the barley grown in the surrounding country and hops from Puyallup Valley brought considerable money to the town and the neighboring farmers. The same year witnessed many improvements, public and private. These included an electric light plant and a system of water works. New business houses were erected; a creamery established and. taken altogether, it was a year of great advancement for the town. Aside from the improvements men- tioned a new brick city hall was built. Prior to the erection of this edifice the city council had been meeting in a woodshed.

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