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PART I - HISTORY OF THE GRAND COULEE DAM AREA - April, 1958
GRAND COULEE DAM AREA COMMUNITY DEVELOPMENT STUDY HISTORY REPORT
Early History of the Grand Coulee Dam Area
COMMITTEE:
Dayma Evans, Chairman
Edith Rinker, Co-chairman (related)
Elsa Sandler, Editor
Ruth Kelley, Co-editor (1915-1965: my 1st cousin 1x removed)
REPORTERS:
Helen Rinker (1913-1986: wife of my 1st cousin 1x removed)
Edith Alling
Winnie Sanderson
Gene Thoren
Olive McCoy
Jennie Sheely
Doris Angell
Katrina Trefry
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS:
This history could never have been written without the cooperation of many people of this area who so willingly contributed factual, as well as personal information. We are grateful to every one of them
We appreciate the many hours contributed by the typing committee; Marge McClain, Chairman; Evelyn Schanzenback, Margaret Griffin, Eulalia Tollefsen, and Marge Denton.
We deeply appreciate the great assistance given us by Mr. Robert Smick, head of the commercial department of the Coulee Dam High School whose classes cut the greater portion of the stencils used.
We appreciate the privilege of using the Coulee Dam High School typewriters, and we are grateful to the Grand Coulee High School for the use of their typewriters and mimeograph.
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FORWARD
Coulee means a bed of a stream. The Grand Coulee is the steep-walled trench line valley formerly occupied by the Columbia River. [See note and links on p. 3]
To compile a complete history of the area surrounding the Grand Coulee Dam and extending out into the adjacent counties would require years of research and innumerable contacts, which is quite beyond the Committee at this time.
In working on the historical phase of the Community Development Program, it was decided that only the oldest pioneer families would be contacted. However, in a few cases some with a few years less than fifty years residence were contacted and their interesting memories included.
Since there would be no Community Development Program in this area if it were not for the Grand Coulee Dam, the construction of which caused new communities to come into being, it is natural that we give here a brief history of the building of the Dam. Then would logically follow the story of the towns around it.
History is written for the purpose of creating a better appreciation of the present. The past events and experiences related in these pages record the life in each era of the development of this area, from the time of the Indians to the coming of the first white settlers who homesteaded the land, down to the building of the Grand Coulee Dam.
Through the lens of these past experiences, we perceive the new blessings ahead. On the Archives Building in Washington, D. C., is this inscription: "What is Past is Prologue." As a Washington cabbie once translated it, "You ain't seen nothin' yet!" How true! For with the coming of the Dam, the future development of this area holds unlimited horizons.
Interesting facets of these development up to the present time may be seen through the growth of the schools and churches, as well as the gradual improvement in the conditions under which the pioneers lived, and those which their descendants now enjoy.
In the early days the ferries played an important role as did the school house and post office. The little school house and post office were the pioneer's discussion centers, his polling place, his picnic grounds, his fun spots, with dances, box socials and entertainments. Hence, they appear over and over again in this narrative.
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The pioneer knew extremely severe winters, the struggle with hardships, illness and long distances to a doctor. He saw ventures started only to fail. He knew what death was. Yes, it's all here. Turn the pages and read their own stories, told in their own way, filled with fun and tragic pathos.
In them we hold the past. In them we see the present too.
Elsa Sandler,
Editor
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More recent scientific investigation points to ice age floods from a glacial Lake Missoula as what carved out the Grand Coulee. Here is a link to PBS for links to more information: Mystery of the MEGAFLOOD
See also The Ice Age Floods Institute (IAFI), an educational nonprofit founded in 1995. Major accomplishments since inception are the formation of ten chapters across Oregon, Washington, Idaho and Montana with a large and diverse membership. The Cheney-Spokane Chapter maintains a website which containes several interesting photo galleries and other information.
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A BRIEF CHRONOLOGICAL HISTORY OF THE CONSTRUCTION OF GRAND COULEE DAM
Early explorers through the Grand Coulee area recognized the Coulee as a former great channel of the Columbia River. Almost from the beginning of this century settlers dreamed of re-diverting the waters of the river through this ancient channel to water their thirsty farms and grazing lands. All recognized the colossal magnitude of the task. [See note and links on p. 3]
In 1918 active agitation began to see if something could be done to reclaim the rich Columbia Basin lands. Public spirited citizens joined the ranks. Proponents of the development quickly divided into two camps -- those in favor of a gravity flow from the Clark Fork, and those in favor of pumping into the upper end of the Grand Coulee. After long arguments in congressional and legislative circles and in the public forums the "pumpers" won. Experience proved the wisdom of this decision.
In March of 1933, the Washington State Legislature created the Columbia Basin Commission, its members appointed by Governor Clarence D. Martin. Studies were made by the U. S. Bureau of Reclamation led by Dr. Elwood Mead, Commissioner of Reclamation, to advise President Roosevelt that a low dam could be built at the upper end of the Grand Coulee for the sum of $60,000,000 which would serve to start the ultimate Columbia Basin Project. In June of that year the State of Washington allotted $377,000 for preliminary studies, and authorized the Columbia Basin Commission to contract with the United States for the work. A dedication ceremony in July of 1933 marked the beginning of the work.
Soon thereafter $63,000,000 was allotted from WPA funds to build the Grand Coulee Dam. The work was assigned to the U. S. Bureau of Reclamation. The firs stake was driven on September 9, 1933, near the right abutment. Offices were opened in Almira on September 25, 1933, under the direction of the late F. A. Banks. Contracts were let for diamond test drilling and for excavation of overburden. The excavation for the dam started on December 13, 1933.
Early in 1934 a huge slide on the west abutment moved into the excavated area delaying the work. Construction started in April on the Coulee City-Coulee Dam railroad, and on the highway from Coulee City to the Dam. The railroad was completed early in December. In August, President Roosevelt visited the dam site and was welcomed by 20,000 people. Construction started on the towns of Coulee Dam and Mason City during the summer of 1934 and Mason City was completed by the end of the year.
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On New Year's Day of 1935, the first steel piling for the west cofferdam was driven beginning the work of diverting the Columbia River. In March the U. S. Bureau of Reclamation offices were moved from Almira to Coulee Dam with quarters in the Columbia School. In the spring of 1935 the first houses in Coulee Dam were occupied. In June of 1935 a change order was signed authorizing the construction of a base for the high dam in lieu of the original low dam. Thus work commenced on the design which ultimately brought Grand Coulee Dam to its present size and appearance. There was great jubilation in all of the Dam towns when this occurred.
The first cement for the dam was delivered in November and the west mix plant placed in operation. In December Governor Martin dumped the first official bucket of concrete in Block 16G of the Dam.
The winter of 1935-1936 was severe. The Columbia River froze over from bank to bank at the Dam and remained frozen all through February of 1936. The present steel highway bridge was opened for traffic on January 27, 1936. By August 14, 1936, a million yards of concrete had been placed in the Dam. It became necessary to freeze the now famous ice dam during that month. First artificial cooling of the Dam concrete started December 10. By the end of 1936 1,860,000 yards of concrete were in place. hard winter again forced a virtual shutdown of construction and concrete work until March 8, 1937.
By may 1, 1937, common excavation was completed and the conveyor belts dismantled. These conveyors had moved 12,132,600 yards of earth. Concrete placement increased reaching 15,844 yards for a new daily world record on August 18. At the end of August 1937, 7798 men were employed on the dam. On October 2, 1937, President Roosevelt again visited the Dam to observe its progress. In November and December the cross river cofferdams were removed. Bids were called December 10 for the completion of the dam.
On January 10, 1938, two years, one month and four days after the first concrete pour, the Mason-Walsch-Atkinson-Kier Company completed the concrete under the first contract, having placed 4,525,209 cubic yards in the foundations.
February 7, 1938, the Consolidated Builders, Inc. (formerly Interior Construction Company) were awarded the contract to complete the dam and appurtenant structures. They began work in March and in August went on a three shift per day basis placing concrete. The clearing of the reservoir (Franklin D. Roosevelt Lake) started on October 21, 1938, with WPA forces.
The twelve pumping plant discharge tunnels were excavated by April of 1939. During high water in the Columbia on May 14, 1939, all twenty of the lowest row of spillway outlet tubes were opened for the first time for river diversion.
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On May 25, the CBI Company set a new world record which still stands, when they placed 20,685 cubic yards of concrete in one 24-hour period. They also excavated for and poured the first concrete in the pumping plant foundation on October 6, 1939. During October another world record for concrete was set when the contractor poured 536,264 cubic yards for the month. On December 11, 1939, the 9,000,000th cubic yard of concrete was placed in Grand Coulee Dam. With its appurtenant works, Grand Coulee Dam finally contained 10,979,641 cubic yards of concrete.
By May of 1940 all steel penstock linings for the main units in the right and left powerhouses were in place. Work started on installation of station service units LS-1 and LS-2. In October of that year the installation of the spillway drum gates was begun. Work commenced on installation of turbine L-3 and L-2 in the left powerhouse. Cold weather in November closed down the concrete operations with about 35-000 cubic yards remaining to be placed.
During January of 1941 station service unit LS-1 was tested, producing Grand Coulee Dam's first electrical energy, and in March LS-1 and LS-2 were placed in service on the Bonneville Power Administration's system. Work was begun on the 115KV and 230KV switchyards. Grand Coulee Dam power was used by Coulee Dam and the Government section of Mason City in May of 1941 for the first time.
Construction of the 11-arch spillway bridge was started in June of 1941 and the work was completed on October 14. In July the first main unit, L-3, a 108,000KVA generator, started its series of tests continuing until September 28 when it was placed in service on the Bonneville Power Administration's system. Pearl Harbor was attacked by the Japanese on December 7, 1941. On December 12 all concrete required under the main contract with CBI was in place.
War brought swift changes to Grand Coulee Dam. A work order to construct the right power house was issued to CBI on December 29. Work which many believed would be delayed for at least a generation now became imperative. January of 1942 saw main unit L-2 in service followed by L-1 in April. Two generators destined for Shasta Dam whose powerhouse was not yet ready were diverted to Grand Coulee Dam and placed in Units L-7 and L-8 wheel pits.
June 1, 1942, at about 2:30 P. M., 15,000 people witnessed the first water pour over the spillway drum gates of Grand Coulee Dam. On November 15 the War Production Board halted construction of the right powerhouse.
January of 1943 saw the completion of the CBI contract totaling $41,366,900 in work. By the end of February, the Shasta Unit in L-7 was placed in service, and on May 8 the second Shasta unit in L-8 pit went into service.
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Power hungry war industries demanded more electrical production, and on August 9 Main unit L-6 was placed on the line, followed by L-5 on November 8 and L-4 on February 12, 1944. This completed the unit installation possible in the left powerhouse until removal of the Shasta units.
In September of 1943 construction of the circular caisson dry dock was begun. On June 8, 1944, first concrete was poured and by the end of the year work was completed, ready for channel dredging.
With the end of the War preparations were made for removal of the Shasta Units. This work was completed by August 31, 1946, and the units shipped to Shasta Dam. Preparations were made to install Coulee Unit R-7 in its own pit which work was completed and the unit ready for service on October 19, 1947.
Meanwhile work had resumed on the right powerhouse. In the summer of 1948 on June 12, the Columbia River reached its highest flood peak since 1894. The spillway and turbines of the Grand Coulee Dam passed 633,000 cubic feet of water per second. Great damage occurred downstream as far as the mouth of the Columbia River, but Grand Coulee Dam sustained no damage. The year 1948 is still called the "year of the big flood".
Power demands continued to climb and by July 12, 1949, main units R-1 and R-2 were in service, followed by R-3 on September 30, 1949.
President Harry S. Truman visited the dam on May 11, 1950, to dedicate the lake behind Grand Coulee Dam as Franklin D. Roosevelt Lake. On April 14, 1950, generating unit R-4 went on line, with R-5 and R-6 on July 13 and October 7. The following year, 1951, saw main unit R-7 completed in April, R-8 in June, and R-9 in September.
In November of 1950 assembly of the big irrigating pumps P-1 and P-2 was begun. A celebration marked the starting of the first pump, P-1 on May 7, 1951. Pump P-2 started to pump on July 5 with a sizable lake beginning to form in the Grand Coulee. By this time the railroad had been removed, the old highway abandoned, and the new highway placed in service along the east Coulee wall from Grand Coulee to Coulee City.
On September 14, 1951, main generating unit R-9 in the right powerhouse was placed in service, completing the two powerhouses and bringing the rated capacity of Grand Coulee Dam up to 1,974,000 KW. Thus, the dreams of two generations of people became reality. But the name-plate rating of 1,974,000 KW did not limit the huge electrical generators of Grand Coulee Dam, great as it was. On August 18, 1953, Grand Coulee Dam set a world record for one hour's production of 2,321,000 KWH,
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and this was done with only 17 of its 18 main units operating. Since that time the giant powerhouses have continued to set new world records until at this time Grand Coulee Dam holds all world records for kilowatt production for one hour, one day, one month and one year.
On March 14, 1952, a serious accident occurred in the Dam when a spillway outlet gate tube access manhole was left opened to a gallery and its gate was inadvertently opened, admitting large volumes of water under high pressure into the Dam and powerhouses. Fortunately Government personnel were able to close the valve before damage became great. Measures were taken at once to prevent recurrence.
[My grandfather, Sam Seaton, was one of the operating engineers working that day. -- Cousin Sam]
Do date six pumps have been installed for irrigation pumping. This completed the work of construction until such time as the Basin lands are developed to require more water. There remain six empty pump pits in the pumping plant. The presently installed six pumps can supply sufficient water to irrigate 600,000 acres of land.
With the fame of Grand Coulee Dam spreading over the world, close to a half million visitors yearly come to see it. A new tour center was completed in 1957 to care for these visitors. Many come just to look, some to enjoy the bright summer sun, others to fish or to camp and explore the interesting surrounding country.
In November of 1955 the American Society of Civil Engineers named Grand Coulee Dam and the Columbia Basin Project one of the Seven Modern Wonders of Civil Engineering in the United States.
On March 11, 1958, at the new Tour Center, at Grand Coulee Dam, Mr. Louis R. Howson, President of the American Society of Civil Engineers, formally presented a beautiful bronze plaque which commemorated this feat. Mr. Phil Nalder, Columbia Basin Project Manager, accepted the plaque on behalf of the Bureau and contractors who helped build the Dam and the Columbia Basin Project.
Prepared by Alvin F. Darland,
Power Supervisor of the Power
Field Division, of the Columbia
Basin Project of the United States
Bureau of Reclamation.
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