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Washington Statesman
Walla Walla, Washington Territory
January 3, 1862
Vol. 1, No. 6
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p. 2, col. 4
Portland Correspondence.
PORTLAND, Dec. 20, 1861.
EDS. STATESMAN: — My promise, made before you left Portland, to write you an occasional correspondence is in part fulfilled in submitting the following for your consideration: and first, allow me to compliment the very good taste exhibited by the press of this city and state by endorsing their favorable notices of your paper. A paper published by practical printers — men thoroughly acquainted with the various branches of the business — is always a good one, and such I feel well assured the STATESMAN will be. "Every man to his own trade" is the correct motto, and when men observe this rule they rarely fail of success. The various vicissitudes to which men are subject in this new country, and in this speculative age, get many of them off their proper moorings, and too many of them, I am sorry to know, while "micawhering" around, have taken up with the idea that they possessed qualifications for editing a newspaper, and after demonstrating to the entire satisfaction of the public that they were monomaniacs upon this subject, they have steered off into the channel of politics, or something else which they knew as little about, and finally, of course, gave some one more highly favored an opportunity to write an obituary of their papers — "Died of non-plethora," &c. — This, of course, has been ruinous to the business, and printers have been made to suffer for the mismanagements of those who knew nothing about the business, and who might have succeeded as clerks, pedagogues, preachers or plowmen. If space allowed, a reference here to some of the successful publishers might not be inappropriate — the Harpers, Greely, Ballou, Prentice, Porter, Bennett, or, to come nearer home, the editor of the Oregon Statesman, all of whom were practical printers and commenced on small beginnings.
Some one has sensibly remarked that "it is one thing to write for a paper, but another to edit it;" and as my business now is to write, I will proceed with my budget of news — meager enough,too. (But here allow me, by way of parenthesis — lest I should be "persecuted for opinion's sake," or, rather, for opinions which I do not entertain — to define my position: First, I am a single man; but in being such, it does not necessarily follow that I am an Odd Fellow, nor that I am opposed to Odd Fellowship. On the contrary, or vice versa, I am rather in favor of regalias, and never decline a "complimentary invitation" to accept one of Strauss' or Wasserman's best, and my record shows that I never failed to re-gal myself when the fair demoiselle for whom I had during a whole month so led all my "immaculate vests" saw fit to admire some one's lime'white sail more than she did my time-browned rig. That is what i call being independent; but, again, in being independent, it does not follow that I am a Seceder. In truth, i do not belong to any church; yet rather than be regarded as an admirer of "that peculiar institution" which makes grass-widers and widerers, I would be classed among the subscribers to that enthusiastic doctrine defended by P. B. C.; and I do subscribe to that advocated so warmly a short time ago by T. H. P., (though neither myself nor my cousel aspire to any position "higher than that which we now hold,") that "marriage is a divine institution," and that the hymenil knot is not a knot to be untied "at will,according to the whim or caprice of the parties." In short, Messrs. Editors, though a single man, and in all human probability destined to remain so, I am nevertheless a Union man, and in favor of
"The union of hearts, the union of hands,"
And the union of life forever.
Having thus plainly defined my position, I trust that in what I have here written, or in what I may hereafter write, your personal friends and well-wishers here will find no grounds for legal quibbles. If they should, send 'um to me! I am "six feet two," and run on my ponderosity.
I presume your regular correspondents here have flooded you with items in relation to the great misfortune which has befallen Oregon by reason of the late high waters. The picture is a sad one. Hundreds who have by years of industry and patient toil secured to themselves comfortable homes and comparative independence are now reduced to almost beggarly poverty. Homes have been made desolate by the loss of friends. Houses have been swept away and their once happy inmates have been buried beneath the remorseless waters, and now sleep the sleep of death in their cold embrace. * * * But enough of this dark side. The waters have receded and the sun has once more opened his light upon us. Business has resumed with usual activity and the "old smile" is again brightening up the countenances of our citizens. Trade is receiving a anew impetus from the prospective large immigration in the spring to your country and the mines. The arrival of the boat from the Dalles, with the latest news from Walla Walla and the mines, is now looked for by our citizens with as deep an interest as the people of San Francisco used to manifest in the early days in the arrival of the mail steamer from the States. The whistling of the Julia, on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday evenings is the signal for a general rush to the wharf and the Express office; and while anxious friends peer among the crowd at the wharf, in hopes of finding some familiar face just down from the "upper country," others equally anxious, await the delivery of the letters at the Express office, expecting to receive something from some friend who is making his "pile" in the mines.
Everybody here is talking of going to the mines in the spring, and you may expect to see more "live men" in Walla Walla valley next summer than ever before crossed the Cascade mountains. The result of course will be that you will receive large accessions to your population, and the resources of your new country will be developed even more rapidly than were those of the rich vallies of California.
News that would be of interest to your readers is hard to obtain here now. In fact, the people here look to the upper country for "news;" besides, I presume "Portland" and "Honest John" have had an eye to supplying you with news items. Yours, &c. PHENIX.
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p. 2, col. 5
The Road to Salmon River
MESSRS. EDITORS: As the subject of the most direct road to salmon river mines is just now attracting the most attention of any other, I will offer you my opinions based upon some personal experience and a large amount of information derived from other sources. having resided in this valley some three years, and being constantly in quest of information relative to the future prospects of this country, i have obtained som information which is at least satisfactory to myself, in regard to the location of these mines and the country surrounding them through which miners must necessarily travel from the more populous sections of the lower country.
From the Dalles to the upper Umatilla one must travel nearly East. At this point the question is raised as to which route to travel. Shall you turn South, and from thence S.E. by S., eighty miles further (over as hilly a road as that in crossing the Blue Mountains from the Umatilla to Grand Ronde) to a point near the mouth of Powder river. From here your route is North-east by North to the Salmon mines.
We will now start from the Umitilla by way of Walla Walla, North-east 30 miles, from here to Lewiston 60 miles; and in that distance you are 20 miles North of Walla Walla. You then have 80 miles more South-east by east, and then 30 miles southward and you arrive at the mines. — Now we have by this line of travel a road — as direct and good a road for the distance as can be found in any part of the Eastern country.
Thus much for the outlines. Suppone now we examine some of the details or particulars of each route. From Umatilla, the first step is to ascend a spur of the Blue Mountains, very steep and four miles and three-quarters to the first place that a wagon can stand without blocking. In this ascent you attain an elevation of 3,300 feet. This is the first step on the proposed new route by way of Grand Ronde, and from this on, the road is very hilly, still more elevated, and certainly the most rocky road I ever traveled. Arriving at the Grand Ronde river, you descend a long hill, and crossing the river ascend a hill so steep that no two yoke of oxen can draw an empty wagon up it which would be capable to carry 50 hundred. There you again attain an elevation of something over 3000 feet. This hill of itself is so steep as to be almost a barrier to freighting in that direction, unless some more practicable route can be found near this point. Eight miles more brings you to the descent into the Grand Ronde valley, which is of a corresponding height with the ascent from the river; eight miles more over a most excellent road and you arrive at the foot of a hill more difficult and dangerous to ascend, going out of the valley, than can be found on any wagon road where teaming is done within my knowledge. From this on the road is good until you leave the valley of Powder river, from which you enter a very mountainous country; though destitute of timber, yet the summits of these hills are some four or five thousand feet high, piled in together like an immense number of hay stacks thrown in a heap; and when any one finds a good road through that chain of country which borders Snake river from the Blue Mountains to mouth of Burnt river, and is about 30 miles wide — unless they go down through some such a canyon as that through which the immigrant road follows in coming up Burnt river — I am in hopes that they will give us the particulars of it as soon as possible.
But here we must close the details of this route, as nothing further is known of it, more than that after — if it should be possible to reach and cross Snake river, which will be above Salmon — then the mountains must be re-crossed, that river ferried, and the mountains on which the mines are situated ascended before the Eldorado can be reached.
Turn now to the other route. From the Umatilla to Lewiston, every one who has traveled acknowledge it to be a good wagon road, over which four-horse teams draw 30 hundred without any trouble; and from Lewiston to the foot of the mountains those who have been frequently over the road assure me that it is a better road than from here to Lewiston. You are within thirty miles of the mines, and you must ascend a mountain of almost 4,500 feet in height, and proceed on that mountain to the mining region, which is situated on the south side of this range. Through this last stretch now wagon road has as yet been prospected, and no effort has been made to do it; but probably such an effort will be made when spring opens. As it is but a short distance, surely it will be as easy as to find a wagon road through the same kind of country for a distance of about 190 miles, which still remains to be done on the other route. And I will here say that a pack trail even still remains to be found for this distance of 190 miles.
Will any man of reason undertake to force his way around through that mountainous region while a more direct and better road is already open?
Now let us examine the acts and doings of other men in time that is past which bears directly on this subject. I allude to the granting of a charter by the legislature of Washington Territory to Capt. Pierce, for the construction of a wagon road from Walla Walla to Fort Boise. — This road is intended to enable emigrants to reach the Dalles by a nearer and better route than that traveled at present. This proposed route is now being surveyed, and goes by way of the Nez Perce country, crossing Snake river near Lewiston. I would ask now if it is more direct to go by the Grand Ronde valley to the mines on Salmon river, would it not be infinitely more so to go that way to Fort Boise,instead of coming by way of this point and Lewiston? But, says one, what evidence have we that this is the best route? In answer, I will remark that, that old mountaineer, Capt. Pierce, was so well satisfied on this point that he spent one whole winter and a large amount of money in obtaining his charter, and was also enabled to produce the testimony of those who had been often through that country, and convince the legislature that it was practicable and of great advantage. I will alude to a part of this evidence, which I had the pleasure of reading, given by the Rev. Mr. Spaulding, who for many years resided in the Nez Perce country, and frequently traveled that road in going to Ft. Boise for trading purposes. He gives it as a fact that it was a good road and so direct that he had no doubt that it would shorten the distance materially in reaching the Dalles.
Now, when any body represents the discovery of a better route than the one by way of Walla Walla valley, and can introduce it to the traveling public, I will then discuss its merits; but as long as men merely say they are going to open a route, etc., I shall not trouble myself to discuss it, as no man of sense would start on such a proposition while there is a good road and trail open, and traveled every day. A. B. R.
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COMPLIMENTARY TO BRIGADIER GEN. WRIGHT. — The Fort Benton Road party will pass the winter on the Big Blackfoot river, Bitter Root valley, 363 miles from Walla Walla. To their winter quarters has been given the title of "Cantonment Wright," in honor to Brigadier General George Wright, U. S. A., the popular and able commander of the department of Oregon.
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The ferry-boat at the crossing of Snake river, near Lewiston, which was recently carried away, has been replaced. It was found some distance below the crossing, and one of the Indians of the party which took the boat to cross, was found dead. The others escaped.
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p. 2, col. 6
Letter from the Mines.
FLORENCE, Dec. 23, 1861
MESSRS. EDITORS — Thinking that an occasional letter from this part of the country would not be uninteresting to the readers of your new and enterprising journal, I purpose to give them.The developments which have been made in bringing to light the hidden treasures of this new Eldorado, are so great as to be almost beyond belief. Three months ago, the idea that gold could be found at all in this not very agreeable looking place, was only known to but nine prospectors; now it is known to at least a thousand honest and industrious miners, nearly all of whom have claims which are yielding to them a rich reward for their labor. It would be useless to give all the many instances of big strikes, of rich gulches, and of rich claims, for a few will suffice. One of the lucky ones who have made a strike lately is Col. Bridges, of Oregon City. The first day's work, with a pan alone, he took out of his claim thirty-two ounces fine gold. The next day, two men working with a rocker, cleaned up thirteen pounds. He is located on the branch of Smith's inlet. A company of seven, working on Nasan's Gulch, took out in one day last week, $2,100. Most claims on this gulch average $50 per day to the hand. Baboon Gulch pays equally as well. The Wiser claim, on this gulch, which was rich and no mistake, fails to make further usual payments; Summit flat, Vashae's Gulch, Rees' Gulch, Dragoon Gulch, and Pioneer Gulch, each pay on an average $50 per day to the hand. There are a great many gulches which are known to but few, yet believed richer still.
There has been no weather yet so severe as to put a stop to mining operations. The road over the mountain to Slate creek has been kept in a traveling condition, and miners are continually arriving, and but very few leaving. New discoveries, which are reported being made nearly every day in our immediate vicinity, keep our new arrivals on the alert for deserted claims, for a great many of those having claims are sure to push off, expecting to find it richer still.
Changes in our market occur as often as changes in the weather. There has been a considerable quantity of provisions coming in during the last week, and much more is reported to be on the way. Flour at this time is selling at 60c per lb; bacon, $1.25; beans, $1.00; coffee and sugar, $1.00; tea, $2.00; dried apples, $1.00; syrup, $11.00 per gallon; gum boots, $30.00 per pair; leather boots, $12.00; shovels, $12.00; picks, $5.00. We have plenty of good beef in market, selling at from 15 to 30c; mutton, 25c. Should there be any severe storms soon on the mountain, you may expect to hear of slight tending upwards in the above figures.
The two express companies continue their regular trips to this place, by which we receive the news from Walla Walla semi-monthly.
FELLOW-CRAFT.
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Letter from the Dalles.
DALLES, Dec. 27, 1861.
MESSRS. EDITORS — I promised to write you from this place, but have delayed somewhat in fulfilling it. Probably this neglect is accounted for on the doctrine that men are actuated and influenced more by surrounding circumstances than by native intuition, and is attributable to the general dullness of things down this way in comparison to the life and energy manifest in your thriving and wide-awake town. In my recent trip up country, I was highly pleased with Walla Walla and its surroundings, and the impression forced itself upon my mind that the town was destined to flourish and become in time a populous and thriving city. Whatever may be its prospects in a commercial point of view, it has an advantage in situation, entirely irrespective of foreign support, such as but very few towns possess. The dense, settled population which will in a few years surround it on all sides, will be found to be a far greater means of its substantial prosperity, than the support of mining localities, however continuous that support may be. Commerce alone may build up a town under certain peculiar circumstances; but without the aid of its hand-maid, agriculture, the instances are rare indeed that towns flourish and become of any particular note.We have been literally rained in here for the past month, and but for an unexpected "clear up" the other day, I should have thought, as did the celebrated John Phenix, that after raining constantly a month or two, it had commenced for a long storm. Such continuous rainy weather is equaled only by the famous land of Webfoot.
Much excitement is evidently being created here relative to the Grand Ronde country, and the prospect of a road from this town by way of that valley to the Salmon river mines. Some confidence seems to be entertained here that a route has been found through that country which will throw other routes in the shade; but owing to my information and knowledge on this subject, I am still incredulous. It certainly would not be prudent nor wise for any person to take that route at present, inasmuch as it is not as yet determined that a successful passage has been found over the mountains from the Grand Ronde to the mines. I notice that the Mountaineer and Times have "locked horns" on this subject, and are indulging a bit of spicy comment. Leland's figures, adduced in support of his opinions regarding the distances of the routes, were a stumper to the Mountaineer, as he has failed to answer the argument.
The people of the Dalles regard all rival advantages with a jealous eye, and exhibit some enterprise in the way of placing their town upon a secure footing. But, somehow or other, most of their movements in this direction seem to prove abortive in the end. There has been some interest felt here of late in regard to a movement to put on a line of steamers direct between San Francisco and this town. It was reported some weeks since that arrangements had been completed for carrying this project into operation, and that one or two steamers were ready to commence regular trips. Such an attainment by the merchants and business men of this town, would do more to enhance its prospects than any other scheme now on foot for this purpose. It would place the people at once in direct communication with San Francisco, and would relieve them of the tribute they now pay to the larger business houses below.
But I will close, promising that if I find anything of interest to communicate, you shall have it.
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