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CHAPTER III.
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CITIES AND TOWNS.
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COULEE CITY.
Although not the largest village within the limits of Douglas county, Coulee City is, certainly, the most picturesque and, perhaps, the most interesting from a historical view point. It is situated in the bed of the Grand Coulee and almost overshadowed by its lofty, imposing walls. With no large area of agricultural land in the immediate neighborhood one might at first blush be led to doubt that there was a reasonable excuse for the existence of Coulee City. But a more careful investigation reveals the fact that the town is admirably located. It is on a level piece of ground. The view of the coulee walls is an inspiring sight. Here the town lies in an opening of that wonderful creation of nature, the Grand Coulee, and one never tires of gazing at the towering walls of the portion of the coulee which extends to the northwest. A few minutes' walk to the south reveals other marvelous sights unfolded. Surrounding the town are a number of springs of pure water which furnish the town with its supply. Around these springs which are just outside of the original platted townsite, are groves of trees at whose roots cluster the loveliest flowers imaginable, covering the banks of the springs and the tiny brooks which flow from them — a veritable oasis in the "scab rock" country which surrounds Coulee City for several miles.
The site where now stands Coulee City was for many years known as McEntee's Crossing of the Grand Coulee. Here for an extended period lived Philip McEntee, the pioneer of Douglas county. In 1881 he erected a log cabin on what would now be the outskirts of the town. During the following few years other settlers came to the vicinity, but it was not until 18S8 that enough of them had come into the country to warrant the establishment of a store. In June of that year Mr. George R. Roberts, who had come into Douglas county in 1883, opened a general merchandise store about three-quarters of a mile north of the present business portion of the town of Coulee City. A postoffice called McEntee, in honor of the first settler, was established, and Mr. Roberts was named and served as the first postmaster. In November of the following year Mr. Roberts took his brother-in law, Mr. Thomas Parry, into partnership with him. The business was subsequently conducted under the firm name of Roberts & Parry. The "town" of McEntee was enlarged in the fall of 1888 by the establishment of a second store and a blacksmith shop, both enterprises being financed by Levi Salmon. Mr. Salmon conducted the blacksmith shop, and his son, Arthur, was in charge of the store. Dan Twining also conducted a saloon in McEntee.
The town of McEntee lost its identity with the platting and building up of the town of Coulee City in the spring and summer of 1890. Roberts & Parry engaged in business in the new town, and here, too, Mr. Salmon moved his shop, but closed out his mercantile business
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in McEntee. The postoffice of McEntee was transferred to the new location and was thereafter known as Coulee City.
But its history really dates from the building of the Central Washington railroad to that point, or more properly, from the contemplated construction of the road to the crossing of the Grand Coulee. Let us examine the prospects for a town at this point before the road reached the spot where Coulee City afterward appeared, from the viewpoint of that veteran editor, Frank M. Dallam. April 28, 1890, he said:
"It is confidently expected that trains will be running into the coulee by the first of July. This point will be the end of a division and the railroad company will make extensive improvements. Round houses, shops and all the buildings necessary at a division will be constructed. The company will spend thousands of dollars in this work, and a large force of men will be employed. It is proposed to build the round houses of brick, opening a profitable industry to some one. Quite a town is bound to spring up at this point. It will be by far the most important place between Davenport and the Columbia river. Already arrangements have been perfected for putting up a large number of buildings. A gentleman was on the way to the place Monday for the purpose of constructing a large hotel. A paper will be issued at Coulee City before the road is completed. A very large number of lots have been sold in the town and the demand for property is so great that the price of lots is soon to be advanced. No town has ever been started on the road with brighter prospects than Coulee City, and in time it will become a very important place. The public will hear more of Coulee City in a few weeks, as it is already attracting a large number of people."The town was platted and dedicated April 13, 1890, by Levi Salmon. Reed's plat of Coulee City was filed April 17, 1890, by G. K. Reed. Additions to the town have been platted since as follows: McEntee's First Addition, May 29, 1890, by Philip McEntee. South Side Addition September 24, 1892, by L. McLean, as trustee. First Addition July 1, 1892, by H. S. Huson and C. C. May.
Following the advent of the railroad the growth of the new town was something phenomenal. Its history during the first few weeks of its existence is told in the initial issue of the Coulee City News which appeared June 30, 1890, under the guidance of that veteran publisher, James Odgers:
"George R. Roberts is the pioneer merchant, having located about one mile north of the present townsite two years ago. He has been postmaster of McEntee ever since the office was established. One year ago he took Thomas Parry, his brother-in-law, as partner. Roberts & Parry carry a full stock of general merchandise and enjoy the fruits of square dealing in a good, prosperous trade. John J. Thomas was, also, one of the first to see in the head of the coulee a good business site and an opening for a hotel and feed stable. He erected a building close to the store of George R. Roberts and has enjoyed an excellent patronage from the traveling public. He has just completed one of the best hotel buildings between Spokane Falls and the Sound. The long acquaintance of himself and estimable wife in this section will enable them to know and meet the wants of the traveling public.
"Barker & Madden erected the first building on the present townsite. which was followed shortly by another built by Michael Fredo. Both places were used for saloons and they still cater in that capacity. The townsite company held out inducements for a first-class hotel to be erected in short order. E. A. Foreman, of Medical Lake, agreed to have a hotel of twenty rooms completed and furnished in thirty days following the contract. Mr. Foreman fulfilled the agreement to a dot, and the Central Hotel is the result. James Hunter, formerly of Cloverdale, North Dakota, in looking for a
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location for a general store, settled here when the town was first located. He immediately erected a large tent and commenced business. His stock is large and new and consists of almost everything that is called for in the merchandise line. He is daily adding to his large stock as his fast increasing trade demands. Tony F. Richardson & Company have erected a large and commodious livery barn that is a credit to the place. They immediately stocked it with good driving and saddle horses, and several new carriages and buggies. They also run a lumber yard where all kinds of building material can be had at current prices.
"Adron & Thurman also have a livery and feed stable where they take pleasure in giving the best care to all stock entrusted to them. 'Billy,' as "Sir. Adron is commonly known, has run a hack between this place and Almira ever since the town has been established, and being a rustler he still gets his share of the partonage. John Brown, our restaurant keeper, is one of those good-hearted, whole-souled pioneers who have seen the country grow up and develop for years. His tables are always supplied with the best the market affords and to feed at the City Restaurant is to fare sumptuously. Frank A. Losekamp, of the 'Blue Front,' is always on deck to sell you a suit of clothes or fit you with a pair of nice shoes. Frank has had considerable experience in the gents' furnishing line and knows the needs of the western trade. Mr. Losekamp and wife are a worthy addition to our fast growing city. Hill & Evans, dealers in lumber, sash, blinds, coal, etc., are men of good business principles and will make it a point to deal in first-class building material and we predict for them a good trade. Bisbee & Cooper have just finished a substantial building on Main street and opened up a well-ordered saloon. Both managers are well known along the line of the Central Washington. For the past year both have been located at Wilbur. Davis & Raridon, formerly of Wilbur, are now located here. They have a well equipped shop and we are able to recommend them as first-class general blacksmiths and horseshoers.
"M. Gilfoil & Shook are the proprietors of one of the Main street saloons. They occupy a good building, and the R. R. is always popular. Both gentlemen are former residents of Davenport. In a rapidly growing town like this there are always scores of carpenters. Prominent among them is the contractor and architect, Thomas East. He has superintended the erection of some of the best buildings in town and they are monuments of his skill. Mr. East is an excellent mechanic. A Chinaman has already found his way among us and put up a wash house. He is, of course, prosperous and happy. A meat market will soon be opened
here by Dan Paul whose experience recommends him to all.
"A bakery has just been opened and is doing an increasing business. A jeweler, we are told, has come among us, although his shingle has not been swung. A building has just been completed on Main street by a gentleman from Wenatchee, which we are informed, is soon to be opened as a short order restaurant. A large double building is being erected on Main street near the depot which will be occupied on one side as a barber shop, while the other will, doubtless, be opened as a saloon."
Such were the business conditions of Coulee City in 1890, the outcome of but a few short years of municipal existence. And aside from this business activity there was considerable "life" of another description. The town was overrun with railroad laborers and, incidentally, a number of rather sanguinary cowboys. Personal encounters were frequent and considerable disorder reigned for a few months. This was a condition, however, that could hardly be averted and one not unusual to nearly all new railroad towns. But there was a brighter side to the picture. June 27, 1890, the Coulee City News said:
"Only surprise is pictured on the faces of
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those who visit out city after a few weeks absence. They hardly realize that in so short a time such substantial business houses could be constructed so far from the base of supplies. Where a few weeks ago bare crust, grease wood and ungainly knolls were to be seen, today are broad, graded streets and avenues. With the advent of the railroad in a few days the rush will begin and we may look for a still greater improvement. A model railroad yard is here waiting for the finishing touches. A round house of six stalls, built entirely of brick, blacksmith and repair shops of the same material, sand house, material house, coal bunkers, two water tanks, turn table, a large, artistic depot and station house will all combine to make Coulee City resemble a railroad center of importance."The Central Washington railroad was completed to Coulee City and in operation in the fall of 1890. Between this time and the "boom" of 1892 the population rose to nearly 300 people. The town was on a most substantial basis. But during a portion of the year 1892 Coulee City was on the anxious seat. Her condition might aptly be termed feverish. It then appeared probable that the Great Northern railway would cross the Grand Coulee at that point. In fact it was considered by many that this was the only available point where a crossing could be made. We have told in a previous chapter how the route along Crab Creek was finally selected. But the rumor that the road might, and probably would, cross at Coulee City precipitated a boom that could not have been surpassed had the road actually passed through the heart of the town. Material for the construction of the greater portion of the road through Southern Lincoln and Douglas counties was shipped over the Central Washington via Coulee City. During the summer of 1892 the town was a typical railroad camp. Residents of that year tell us that the place had a population of 1,200 to 1,500. Temporary buildings were run up and all kinds of business, good, bad and indifferent was added to the town. The class of people who follow the building of railroads were there in all their commendable or pernicious activity. Coulee City gained a reputation that summer for "toughness" which was only equalled later by Wenatchee and Cascade Tunnel, at the time the army of railroad builders made those places their headquarters. But with the removal of these railroaders Coulee City resumed its normal condition — that of a town possessing a class of most estimable citizens. The buildings erected for temporary use were torn down, or sold and removed to adjacent ranches. For the succeeding decade the town remained a country village, being the trading and shipping point for a vast but thinly populated territory.
Between twelve and one o'clock, Sunday morning, July 14, 1895, the six-stall, brick round house was discovered to be on fire. The flames had spread to such an extent that it was impossible to check them with the water facilities at hand, and all the wood-work was rapidly consumed. Locomotive No. 119 was in the house and was nearly ruined.
The growth of Coulee City during the decade from 1892 to 1902 was insignificant. Still, it was the terminal of the Central Washington railway, and this fact made for the betterment of a business that, otherwise, would have been stagnant. The town also drew trade from an immense expanse of territory. However, there was very little settlement during the term of years mentioned. But there was destined to be a revival. In November, 1902, the work of grading for the Coulee City-Adrian cut-off was commenced, and business of the town improved perceptibly in consequence. Trains entering the town were loaded with laborers consigned to work on the cut-off, a piece of rocky road bed twenty-two miles in length extending from Coulee City to Adrian, on the Great Northern road to the south. Again the little town assumed the appearance of a bustling mining camp. Several hundred
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laborers were at once set to work on the new road. The result was the erection of many new buildings in the town to be used for saloons and lodging houses.
In June, 1903, according to the assessor's returns, the population of Coulee City was placed at only 122. It is at the present writing June, 1904, about 300.
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