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During the spring succeeding the memorable "hard winter" of 1889-90 travelers throughout the country reported that dead cattle and horses were scattered everywhere. As a rule these dead animals would be found in bunches of half a dozen or more, as if the poor creatures had crowded close together for warmth. The atmosphere of some sections was permeated by a dreadful stench from these decaying carcasses. There were far too many of them too be buried and in a number of instances giant powder was used to blow the bodies to atoms. A gentleman thoroughly familiar with the sheep industry informed the editor of the Sprague Herald that before winter had closed in there were 40,800 sheep within the boundaries of Lincoln county, and that 10,875 perished in these two storms.
By the older citizens of Lincoln county the spring of 1890 will be remembered as the "hard times" period. Property was cheap: business stagnant. Each community in the county suffered from the baleful effects of short crops and an unusually severe winter. But sanguine hopes arose above this depression. It was the belief of nearly all that it was but temporary, and that with the customary "bumper crop" for which the county has almost universally been noted financial affairs would resolve themselves into more favorable conditions.
In 1890, according to the government census, Lincoln county was accredited with a population of 9,312. And this wonderful increase had nearly all accumulated since the era of railway construction through the county.
While the subject of squirrels may appear a rather unique one to occupy a place in the history of any county, old residents of the Big Bend country will agree with us that for several years, beginning with the spring of 1890, the squirrel question assumed large and ominous proportions. While these pests did not make their first appearance this year, it was at this particular time, however, that they came in hordes. They were, indeed, prominent. In political conventions platforms were framed containing "squirrel planks," and the issue appeared momentous. Columns after columns were, in the daily and weekly press, devoted to the treatment of the squirrel evil. Patent exterminators as numerous and varied as the hues of Joseph's coat were put on the market, but each in turn was cast aside and the scourge was only eliminated by the death of the pests from natural causes. A correspondent of the Farmington Journal wrote:
The squirrel which proved such a pest to the farmers of Lincoln county for several years was an animal indigenous to the great
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basin lying between the Rocky Mountains and the Cascades and Sierra Nevadas, and is described by naturalists under the name of the 'whistling marmot of the great plains of the Columbia.' In habit it was a hibernating animal and made its first appearance in this latitude about the middle of March, and in fact its habits were so regular that they have been known to burrow through snow-drifts of from two to there feet deep, and it returned to its burrow about the middle of August or first of September. It got in its worst destructive work in July and August, when preparing for its winter rest, and the damage was done by cutting down the grain and stripping it of the leaves, as it laid up no winter store at all. At the approach of the autumn season the marmot would retire to his burrow and close the mouth of it with earth and then roll himself in a ball of dried grass and lie dormant until the next spring, when he would again emerge and enjoy life for a brief period.Those farms in the western portion of Lincoln county appeared to be more seriously affected by the inroads of the pestilent ground squirrels. There the country appeared to be literally alive with them. In some instances farmers dug deep trenches around their fields in an effort to keep off the squirrels. Mr. Geer, of Geer postoffice, killed 1,100 squirrels within the space of four days, and a farmer near Wilbur succeeded in making away with 16,000 during the summer. And although this slaughter continued there appeared to be no diminution in the exasperating number of squirrels. Bounties and free poison ran the comity in debt $40,000. Squirrel scalp bounties were offered by the county commissioners. Commenting upon this the Times said:
It is astonishing the number of squirrels that have fallen victims this spring, and it would seem that the ranks of the pests must be almost annihilated by the war that has been waged against them this spring. The first week the commissioners were in session upward of 30,000 scalps were cashed in and full returns have not yet been received. Yet while this number appears large, the mortality has made no perceptible reduction in the squirrel population.During the autumn of 1890 the Central Washington railway was completed to Coulee City, in Douglas county. The preceding year it had reached Almira. Some inside history concerning the building of this road was contributed by Mr. C. P. Chamberlin, who became its receiver. In his report published in February, 1896, he said:
In 1887 a Mr. Jamieson made a survey and located a line for the building of the Central Washington railroad from Cheney, in Spokane county, to a point a few miles west of Coulee City, in Douglas county, Washington, a distance of one hundred and seventeen and thirty-seventh-one-hundredths miles. The construction of the Central Washington railroad was begun at Cheney on July 10, 1888, and completed to Coulee City in 1890. The road is completed one mile and forty feet beyond Coulee City, and grade built for about eight miles beyond the end of the track, or nearly to the top of Grand Coulee, on the west side.
Starting at Cheney the road, as built, follows the Jamieson survey to a point about two miles west of Medical Lake, a distance of about twelve miles west of Cheney. At this point the road, as built, leaves the Jamieson survey and runs almost due north for about two miles, following down the stream known as Deep Creek for about three miles, crossing the stream on a 44-span trestle bridge, 703 feet long and 40 feet high, built on an eight-degree curve. The road then runs west about one mile, thence north two miles, thence southwesterly, thence northwesterly and westerly to point of intersection, west of Reardan, with the Jamieson survey, being a distance of eighteen miles from where the constructed line left the Jamieson survey, to point of intersecting it again. This change necessitated the making of sharp curves,
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deep cuts, high trestles, sags and increase of grades and lengthened the road about four and four-tenths miles in the eighteen miles, whereas the Jamieson survey from section 1, township 24, west, range 40 east, ran nearly on a tangent in a west-northwesterly direction, all the way to where the constructed line intersects west of Reardan, making scarcely any cuts, a much easier grade and distance shorter four and four-tenths miles. Nearly all the grade was built and right of way secured on the line of the Jamieson survey before the change was made to where the road is now built.The story of the county seat contest of 1890 between Davenport and Sprague is one replete with dramatic, even sensational interest. It is a recognized truth that the residents of the northern and western portions of Lincoln county never considered the county seat as permanently located at Sprague. It had always been regarded as a matter of course that at some future day the question of relocation would again be submitted to the arbitrament of the ballot. Firm in this belief the voters time and again elected county commissioners with the distinct ante-election understanding that they should swing their official influence to prevent construction of any expensive county buildings.
At a point about one mile west of Davenport the road, as built, turns south and southwest, thence west to Rocklyn, thence northwest to Creston, a distance of about twenty-two miles. Some ten miles of this distance the road, as built, passes through a belt of scab land, composed of basaltic rock, necessitating numerous rock cuts, making this ten miles the most expensive piece of road to build between Cheney and Coulee City. The Jamieson survey, in covering this distance, runs west-northwest until nearing the scab land, that road, as built, passes through, when it runs south avoiding the scab land and rock, crossing back to where the road is now built between Wilbur and Govan, making a much shorter route. The advantage of the Jamieson survey over that of road as built for above distance was a saving in distance, grades, curves, and avoiding the rock cuts. At about the 86th mile post, near Almira, the road as built again leaves the Jamieson survey, runs northwest for about two and one-half miles and thence south-westerly for about fourteen and one-half miles, intersecting the Jamieson survey again at about mile post 104.
On the Jamieson survey the grade is descending the whole distance, while on the road as built it rises to an elevation of 2,108 feet, three and one-half miles west of mile post 86, making this difference; Jamieson survey, length, 16 miles; road as built, length, 18 miles; Jamieson survey, grades not exceeding .7 per cent.; road as built, six miles, .8 to 1.5 per cent.; twelve miles, .4 to .8 per cent. grades. About the only explanation that is given for this change of the construction of the road is that about the time of the beginning of the construction of the Central Washington railroad there was a townsite company formed and composed almost entirely of the Northern Pacific officials, who were either in charge of the construction of the Central Washington railway, or occupying positions that gave them prominence in controlling and directing the affairs of the Northern Pacific Railway Company. It is a matter of regret both to the owners and to the patrons of the Central Washington railway that this townsite company could not have secured as favorable terms for their purpose along the line of the Jamieson survey as where the road was built.
The summer of 1890 appeared to be an auspicious time in which to reopen the burning question of county capital removal. Construction of the Central Washington and Seattle, Lake Shore & Eastern railroads through the northern part of the county had caused a rapid settlement of that portion of the Big Bend. New towns had sprung up and each had acquired quite a formidable voting strength. Agricultural and industrial conditions surrounding
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the two towns of Davenport and Sprague were radically different from what they were during the memorable contest of 1884, six years previous. At that period the central and northern portions were little more than rolling hunch-grass prairies. Settlements were few and far between. Now the aspect was decidedly changed. Nearly every district surrounding Davenport and trending to the southward was occupied by thrifty farmers. It was proposed by the citizens of Davenport to build free of cost to the county a court house building the expense of which should be not less than $10,000. Three-fifths of all ballots cast were necessary to remove the county seat, all of which votes must be in favor of one particular place of removal.
Fully 1,200 voters signed the petition to the county commissioners, which was presented August 5th, and permission was granted by them for an election to be held in November. Thus the 1890 campaign for county seat honors was fairly on, and exceedingly warm. It was the ardent, and natural desire of Sprague citizens to investigate the exact condition of the promised $10,000 for court house purposes. Davenport realized the fairness of this proposition and that amount was promptly deposited in the Big Bend National Bank. Mr. C. C. May, cashier, made affidavit to the following statement:
Davenport, Lincoln County, Wash., October 6, 1890. — This is to certify that there has been deposited in the Big Bend National Bank of Davenport, Washington, the sum of ten thousand dollars for the purpose of erecting county buildings at Davenport, Washington, if the county seat shall be removed from Sprague to Davenport as a result of the election to be held the fourth day of November, 1890. In case the county seat be so removed the Big Bend National Bank will pay into the county treasury the sum of ten thousand dollars on the 4th day of March, 1891, for the purpose of erecting such buildings.Saturday evening, October 18, 1890, a meeting of Wilbur business men was held in Mr. Benson's office for the purpose of discussing the county seat question as it affected Wilbur, and arriving at some positive conclusion as to which point — Davenport or Sprague — offered the least obstacle to the division of the county on a north and a south line. The meeting was called at the solicitation of Davenport gentlemen who had passed the four preceding days canvassing the town, and who personally gave notice to all whom they desired to attend the meeting. The deliberations were of a very informal character, and it soon became apparent that Sprague was regarded as being in a better position to meet the wishes of the people of Wilbur than was Davenport. Upon an expression of the meeting being taken it was found that an unanimous feeling prevailed to assist Sprague in the contest.
The Big Bend National Bank.C. C. May, Cashier.
The vote of Wilbur was an important factor in this contest and to secure it Sprague put forth strenuous efforts. On the other hand Wilbur citizens were extremely anxious that a county division should he effected whereby a new county should be formed of which she might become the capital. The Wilbur Register joined forces with Sprague in this movement and Davenport was defeated by the following vote by precincts:
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Sprague received a majority over the two-fifths vote required and the county seat remained with her.
During the winter of 1890-1 residents of Lincoln county were seriously affected by an annoying wheat blockade. It appeared impossible to secure transportation for the farmers' grain; there was a car-famine with consequent inactivity of the market. Many buyers had advanced money on wheat upon which they could not realize. This condition of the local wheat market continued until after Christmas when plenty of cars were received and the congestion removed.
In January, 1891, there occurred an Indian "scare" on the Colville Reservation and in central Okanogan county. A brief outline of this event may not be out of place here. Cole, a freighter plying between Wilbur and the north country, was murdered by an Indian boy named Stephen, or such, at least, was the supposition. The latter was arrested and lodged in jail at Conconully, the county seat of Okanogan county. A party of citizens from Alma, and other sections of the county went to the jail, removed Stephen and hanged him from a tree a short distance below Conconully. This act greatly angered the Indians on the reservation, who at once threatened to go on the war path and exterminate all the white settlers in the country. At this period the Dakota Indians afflicted with their historical Messiah craze, were on the war path, and in consequence anxiety was felt in many sections of eastern Washington. The citizens of the upper country petitioned the governor of the state for troops and arms with which to defend themselves. Guns and ammunition were at once forwarded, but the hostile Indians were finally induced to remain quiet without further bloodshed. It was subsequently confessed that the danger was more fancied than real, and certain newspapers went to the extent of hinting that, after all, Stephen was not the actual murderer of the freighter, Cole. While no portion of Lincoln county was directly threatened, considerable excitement was manifested by settlers in the northern portion, especially along the Columbia river opposite the Colville Reservation.
The following from the Wilbur Register under date January 23, 1891, explains the nature of the scare in so far as it affected Lincoln county:
Mr. Al Stevens, a prosperous horseman from Grand Coulee, came in from that place Monday last (January 19) with the startling information that the Indians were crossing the river in large numbers and that the settlers in that vicinity were becoming considerably alarmed. He imparted the news to Mayor Hay and at the same time requested him to use his influence in obtaining guns and ammunition for their use. The request was immediately complied with and the arms will, probably, arrive to-night. Mr. Stevens says that the Indians are acting in a very mysterious manner. They cross to this side of the river and then suddenly disappear, no one knows where. Some of the more timid are of the opinion that the Indians are gathering in some of the canyons along the river and some dark night will break out and massacre the whole settlement.
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This is hardly probable, however, as the Indians in this part of the country are at present so few in numbers that they would hardly dare attack settlers this side of the river. If there is any outbreak it will more than likely he in the neighborhood of Ruby City, where the trouble originated. It is all very well to be prepared, tin High, for it is hard to tell what the red devils would not do, and a few hundred rifles distributed among the settlers along the river would lie a great 'inducement' for the Indians to stay at home."Following the temporary settlement of the county seat question resulting in a victory for Sprague, the matter of county division was taken up at the earnest demand of the people of Wilbur. Objection was made by Davenport to any division having a north and south line of demarcation, but the town was, apparently, willing to allow the division question to proceed provided an east and west line was adopted thus separating Sprague from Davenport. It was hoped that by this means the latter town would eventually secure the county seat. To this proposition, however, the consent of Sprague could not be obtained. In the legislature two bills for county division were introduced, one by Representative Isaac M. Cushman providing for a north and south line a few miles west of Davenport, designating Wilbur as the new county seat and christening the proposed new political division as "Big Bend County." A second bill provided for division on an east and west line, but nothing tangible resulted from either of these two measures. Another plan which received some consideration but did not materialize was in the nature of a compromise whereby the county was to he segregated into three divisions, Big Bend to be designated as the western county, Grant that of the east and Sprague to remain the count v seat of Lincoln county. But it was destined that the county should not only remain intact, but that Davenport should, eventually, secure the capital. The following summary of the complication was published March 6, 1891, by the Lincoln County Times:
At the opening of the campaign last fall the relocation of the county seat was the all-important question of the hour. It was believed that a more central location was generally desired, and that its removal to Davenport would result to the financial advantage of the tax payers of the county. Davenport was regarded as well situated and therefore designated as a contestant for county seat honors, Sprague realizing that to rely upon her merits as compared with those of Davenport was likely to result disastrously to her, formed an alliance with Wilbur whereby that town was to throw her vote and influence in the balance with Sprague, in consideration of which the latter would secure such a division of the county as that Wilbur would he the county seat of the new division. The improbability and impracticability of the proposition was apparent to everybody except the Wilbur people themselves. They eagerly caught at this offer and labored hard and faithfully in the interest of Sprague, and by her efforts barely succeeded in retaining that town as the county seat of Lincoln county for another term of years.It was in the latter pan of September, 1891, that Lincoln county, in company with the Big Bend, achieved distinction at the Tacoma Grain Exposition and this too in a manner that accorded her high standing among the grain growing sections of the coast as a cereal producing country. The managers of the exposition placed Lincoln as the first county in the state in a showing of wheat, oats and barley: Walla Walla county the first in fruits and Yakima county the first in hops. Each county in the state was represented by most attractive displays, and a strong effort was made by Whitman to carry away the laurels in the cereal exhibit, but the honor was accorded to Lincoln county.
Having faithfully fulfilled her promises she confidently expected that Sprague would redeem her pledges by aiding the north and south division over the Rocky Canyon. * * * Very naturally Sprague could not afford to aid such a division as it would have left her in a helpless condition to contend with an adversary in the event of another contest. It was but natural that she should try to protect herself, and if by a reiteration of her good will she can succeed in bringing Wilbur to her support again, when she needs her, why, she will do it.
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In March, 1892, the formal transfer of the Seattle, Lake Shore & Eastern Railway was made to the Northern Pacific Company. Still the road had been under practical control of the latter company for nearly a year previous.
The Big Bend Chief tells an interesting tale of the discovery of the Great Northern route down Crab Creek by the Urquhart Brothers, the well known stockmen. President James J. Hill had surveyors out trying to locate an eligible route down to the Columbia river, but the grades were all steep. The Urquhart Brothers, who were watching with decided interest the movements of the company, became acquainted with the difficulty experienced by Mr. Hill. Mr. Donald Urquhart, therefore, wrote the Napoleonic railroader a personal letter agreeing to find him a route devoid of "toboggan slides." At first nothing was heard from Mr. Hill, but one evening, some weeks later, a party drove up to Mr. Urquhart's home and desired to remain over night. The following morning they stated that their errand was to find the route of which Mr. Urquhart had written to Mr. Hill. Accordingly Donald hitched up a team and after a month or two spent in running surveys proved the correctness of his statement made in the letter. The engineer who made the survey met the party at Rock Island and could hardly believe the evidence of the field notes. More especially was he hard to convince as he had made several investments along the northern route for himself and friends with almost a certainty that the road would be constructed along that survey. The only error made by Mr. Urquhart was at Trinidad, where the loop is now made to avoid crossing the canyon at that point. He still maintains that the canyon can be bridged with safety. Within a year from the time that the letter was written to Mr. Hill the whistle of the locomotive might have been heard in the Crab creek valley.
The Great Northern Railway was built through Lincoln county in 1802. Preliminary surveys were made all over eastern Washington and many rumors were afloat as to the probable course through Lincoln county. For a period it appeared reasonable that some of the towns in the northern portion of the county would be on the line as it was thought that the crossing of Grand Coulee would be made at Coulee City. In fact the Great Northern Company filed their map in the Waterville land office showing this route. September 30, 1892, the Great Northern was completed to the Columbia river.
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