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TABLE OF CONTENTS part 2: pp. 72-78
HISTORY OF LINCOLN COUNTY
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to be at liberty when the "scare" developed, wandered about at will. Settlers hastily repaired to Colfax. Wagons were driven down the steep hills heading to the Whitman county seat town at a gallop. Never before or since have the streets of Colfax witnessed such a scene of turmoil. It is certain that had there been any Indians in the vicinity disposed to make an attack but feeble resistance could have been uttered under the circumstances. Many of the fugitives dared not trust even Colfax or Palouse for protection, but pushed on until Walla Walla or Dayton had been reached. Rifles, revolvers, shotguns and weapons of all kinds were hurridly made ready for use. Men rushed about excitedly while women and children greeted each new report of butcheries with loud lamentations and wailings. The Indians, many miles away, were no doubt totally unconscious of the commotion they were causing, and, as was afterwards discovered, the northern Indians were somewhat perturbed, believing the whites were meditating offensive rather than defensive warfare. Settlers on Crab creek, now within the territory comprising the counties of Lincoln and Douglas, like the settlers in Whitman and other portions of eastern Washington, abandoned their homes so soon as the first danger note had been sounded. They set out for Walla Walla and other points, but before proceeding far on their journey some of the bolder ones decided to return to their homes and brave all dangers. Meanwhile a small band of Columbia river Indians on their way from the camas grounds, had discovered that everything was deserted and had helped themselves to whatever they could find in the way of provisions, clothing and stock. The returned farmers saw these depredations, and nut remaining to ascertain their true extent, tied in haste, circulating all sorts of exaggerated reports. Their stories had the effect of confirming the general impression of an uprising of the northern Indians. Among the many settlers who rushed to Colfax there were a few logical enough to desire some certain evidence of the presence of Indians in their section. Wont twenty of these organized themselves into a scouting party, and on the second day of the scare set out on an expedition. They saw no traces of hostilities. None of the farms which they visited had been in any way disturbed, but the cattle in the corrals were beginning to feel the pangs of hunger and thirst, and were endeavoring to make their wants known by brute signals. At Fort Howard, Idaho, the party was informed that Joseph's band had not crossed the Clearwater, a bit of news which, no doubt, proved very soothing to the friends at home. It was said by some one that the Catholic missionary, Father Cataldo, was being detained at his mission by the Coeur d' Alene Indians, and two of the party, D. S. Bowman and James Tipton, set out for that place to investigate, while the rest returned to Colfax. Messrs. Bowman and Tipton found the Indians greatly excited, believing the "Bostons," as they called the Americans, were preparing to attack them. They had construed the warlike preparations as evidence of hostile intent on the part of the whites and were preparing to defend themselves if assaulted. The same was true of the Palouse and Spokane tribes. There can be no doubt that the service of the two dauntless white men in this matter was of inestimable value. They allayed the fears of the red men. explaining the true situation and convincing them of the pacific disposition of the whites. The account which they brought back to Colfax had a pacifying influence there, and as further evidence that no harm was intended they bore certificates of peaceful intentions from the chiefs. These had been procured by Father Cataldo. The arrival of these two men at Colfax was most opportune. The settlers returned to their homes and found that in some instances the Indians, far from entertaining a hostile thought, had even protected the crops from damage by loose cattle and taken care of the deserted property.
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PART II.
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HISTORY OF LINCOLN COUNTY
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CHAPTER I.
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CURRENT HISTORY -- 1854 TO 1867
The original county formed in eastern Washington was Walla Walla. It was the creation of the first Territorial Legislature of Washington, in 1854. These were its boundaries: Commencing its line on the north bank of the Columbia river, opposite the mouth of the Des Chutes river, in Oregon, and thence running north to the 49th parallel of north latitude, and it comprised all of Washington Territory between this line and the Rocky Mountains, which at that time included what is now northern Idaho and a part of the present state of Montana, in addition to the greater part of the present eastern Washington. The whole of this vast territory then contained less than a dozen American citizens and the creation of Walla Walla county has been spoken of as a "legislative absurdity."
The officials appointed to jurisdiction over this immense county failed to qualify; the succeeding legislature in 1855 appointed others. In this age of place-hunting and patronage-begging it is interesting to note that none of the gentlemen last appointed seemed to desire the honors or emoluments of public office, and as none of them qualified for their positions the Walla Walla county organization was of merely nominal character as was the case the year previous. But in January, 1859, Walla Walla county was successfully organized. The county seat was located at a small settlement which had sprung up near Mill Creek . Its first name was Steptoeville; then Waiilatpu, and at the first meeting of the commissioners it was given the
name of Walla Walla. In 1858 the Territorial Legislature organized the county of Spokane. These were the boundaries: Beginning at the mouth of the Snake river, thence following the river to the 46th parallel; thence east to the crest of the Rocky mountains; thence following the divide of the Rocky mountains north to the 49th parallel; thence down the Columbia river to the place of beginning. In the bill, county commissioners and other officials were named, but county organization did not materialize de facto. The following year new officials were named with the result that none qualified. It was a duplication of the Walla Walla organization. In 1860 another "act to create and organize the county of Spokane," was passed by the Territorial Legislature. County organization was effected — a county comprising about one-third of the state of Washington, and portions of Idaho and Montana. Pinkney City, about three miles from the present town of Colville, Stevens county, was named as the county seat of all this wide expanse of territory.
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In January, 1863, the legislature created the county of Stevens, the same being taken from Walla Walla county. It was located at that period entirely west of the Columbia river and along the borders of the British Possessions, and north of the Wenatchee river. March 3, 1863, congress forced a division of this large county by organizing the Territory of Idaho from the eastern portion of Washington. This greatly reduced the size of the Brobdingnagian Spokane county.
In 1864 by legislative act the county of Spokane ceased to exist, and thenceforth it was known as Stevens county. The county seat remained at Pinkney City, or Fort Colville, these names being interchangeable. Whitman county was cut off in 1871; at that period it included Adams and Franklin counties. October 30, 1879, Spokane county was organized from a part of Stevens county. At that time the area included Spokane, Douglas and Lincoln counties. The boundaries of Spokane county, as created at that time were as follows: Commencing at a point where the section line between sections 21 and 28, in township 14, range 27, Willamette Meridian, Washington Territory, strikes the main body of the Columbia river on the west side of the island; thence west to the mid-channel of the Columbia river; thence up the mid-channel of the Columbia river to the Spokane river; thence up the mid-channel of the Spokane river to the Little Spokane river; thence north to the township line between townships 29 and 30 ; thence east to the boundary line between Washington and Idaho Territories; thence south on the said boundary line to the fifth standard parallel; thence west on said parallel to the Columbia guide meridian; thence south on said meridian to the fourth standard parallel; thence west on fourth standard parallel to the range line between ranges 27 and 28: thence south on said range line to the section line between sections Nos. 24 and 25, in township 14. north, range 27 east, Willamette Meridian; thence west to the place of beginning.
Within these boundaries were the present counties of Spokane, Lincoln and Douglas, with an area of 8,844 square miles. The legislative session of 1883 changed the map of eastern Washington. In the Big Bend country, with which we have to deal particularly, the four counties which form that country were created; Lincoln and Douglas from the western portion of Spokane county, and Adams and Franklin from the western part of Whitman county.
We have traced the county formations of eastern Washington so far as they effect Lincoln county. The Spokane county, as formed in 1879, remained intact until 1883, when the present Lincoln county was formed. But before proceeding with the creation of the county let us look into the early settlement before it became a county. All these changes indicated a period of voluminous immigration. The days of the aborigines, the explorers, the fur traders and the missionaries, which we have glanced at in brief panorama, were merging into those of the agriculturist, the miner, the tradesman and the scholar, with the soldier on the stage during the brief intervals between acts.
Previous to the advent of white men Lincoln county contained an Indian trail extending from east to west. It was considered one of the most popular Indian thoroughfares in eastern Washington. The over-night camping place was the spring where now is located the town of Davenport. Bunch grass was abundant in the neighborhood and the present site of Davenport was in the nature of an oasis.
Otto Woolweber, residing eight miles north of Reardan, Lincoln county, an enthusiastic delver after data relating to the early history of the west, has in his possession valuable writings and maps, once the property of Governor Isaac Ingalls Stevens' surveying party which passed through the Territory of Washington in 1853. From this source we learn that a detachment of this party under Lieutenant Richard
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Arnold traversed a portion of what is now Lincoln county. From Fort Colville Lieutenant Arnold followed the Columbia down to the point where Hunter Creek (Paw-Waw) forms a confluence with that stream. From here he crossed over the ridge toward the Spokane river, camping November 16. 1853, on the north side of this stream where now is located the Detillion bridge. On the 17th he crossed the Spokane and traversed the Spokane and Columbia bluffs to the Columbia river and that evening camped where Peach, or Orchard Valley is now located. Still following the bluffs down the Columbia he camped on the 18th near Hellgate and on the evening of the 19th near where Tipso is located. The party entered the Grand Coulee, the altitude at this point registering 1.435 feet, and on the 20m went into camp where now stands Coulee City, Douglas county. At this place Lieutenant Arnold found the altitude to be 1,642 feet above sea level. They explored and followed the Grand Coulee to the Columbia river reaching it November 25th. From this point the party marched to Fort Walla Walla.
So early as 1858 what is now Lincoln county was traversed by a party of miners on their way to the famous Fraser river mines. Hundreds of sanguine, stalwart men passed through the Territory of Washington and up the Okanogan river, that year, to the newly discovered gold fields which, at that period had created the wildest excitement, as did the Klondike country in the 90s. There is substantial evidence that at least one party en route to the Fraser river made its way there via Lincoln county. A company of 350 men and several thousand head of stock left The Dalles. Oregon, bound for Fraser river. They traveled from The Dalles to Walla Walla where government officials were then building the fort. Here the company employed an Indian to guide them to the mouth of the Okanogan river. The guide lost the trail and the mining party struck the Columbia, opposite the mouth of the Sans Poil river. From there they made their way to the Okanogan country. It required a number of days to cross the Columbia. In due time they won their way to the Fraser river, about thirty days out from The Dalles to the diggings.
Among the party who crossed the Big Bend plains in 1858 were J. R. Whitaker, who in 1881 returned to Lincoln county and settled on a ranch near Harrington, and Hiram F. Smith, better known in politics and mining circles as "Okanogan Smith." Returning from the Fraser river country in i860 Mr. Smith took up a ranch at the foot of Osoyoos lake, in what is now Okanogan county. Here he resided for many years and did much for the advancement of that northern country. In 1861 William Newman, after whom Newman's lake was named, came to the present site of Sprague. Here he became proprietor of a station for travelers and government express animals. At that early period Mr. Newman's nearest neighbors were a lone settler at the mouth of the Palouse river, and Mr. James Monaghan. The latter came to this country in i860 and established a ferry on the newly completed military road where it crossed the Spokane river, some twenty miles below the falls. Mr. Monaghan subsequently had charge of what was known as the Lapray bridge.
One of the first permanent settlers — if not the first — to locate in what afterwards became Lincoln county, was R. M. Bacon. Mr. Bacon left his home in Boston in i860 and headed for the west. Three years later he came to the divide valley, in Stevens county, where be remained until 1871. He then came to the Crab creek country, in Lincoln county, and engaged in raising cattle. Save for an occasional band of Indians and the wild animals that ranged over the prairies, the entire country was a wild waste, destitute of life and denounced by military authority as a howling desert. Mr. Bacon confesses that he was a trifle lonesome the first year he passed in the Crab creek country, but after that he was satisfied with his lot. He says
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that occasionally the Indians were a little ugly, but he was never molested, and did not think there was ever real cause for alarm. Within a few years after Mr. Bacon's arrival in this part of the country other hardy pioneers came and settled in his vicinity. In course of time a post office was established on Crab creek, known as the Crab creek Post Office. Mr. Bacon became the first postmaster in Lincoln county. Mail was received once a week by stage.
When the first settlers ventured out upon the broad bunch grass plains of Lincoln county and other parts of Central Washington, only the bottom lands along flowing creeks were considered of any value, and in such places these early pioneers sought to make themselves homes. For agricultural purposes the uplands were considered worthless; fit only for roving bands of cattle, horses and sheep. But a few years later and it was discovered that the uplands were the better, and settlers who located upon them soon found that they were more eligibly situated than those who had preceded them and chosen homes on creek bottoms.
Undoubtedly the oldest settler of Lincoln county, or of the whole Big Bend country, was Samuel Wilbur Condin (sometimes spelled Condit,) but who was better known throughout the northwest as "Wild Goose Bill." February I, 1895, the Wilbur Register explained editorially, as follows:
As there seems to be some question concerning the correct orthography of 'Wild Goose Bill's' name, the Register will state, on the authority of his own signature, that the proper spelling is Samuel Wilbur Condit. The surname was originally Condin, but some years ago it was erroneously spelled Condit in a patent from the government, and this orthography Bill accepted, and has since spelled his name accordingly.
Samuel Wilbur Condit, who was known personally or by reputation to almost every man woman or child in the Pacific northwest, as "Wild Goose Bill," was born in Orange, New Jersey, about 1835. Being from childhood of an adventurous disposition he struck out early for the west in search of fortune. He stopped for a time in Illinois, but soon pushed on to the golden shore of California, where he arrived at an early day. Thence he drifted northward, and in the 60's he was engaged in freighting over the trackless plains of the Big Bend from Walla Walla to the placer camps along the Columbia river. The exact date that he came to this country is uncertain. In an interview in 1889 he made the statement that he had lived in the Big Bend thirty years which would make the period of his arrival in 1859. Condit, or Condin, was a "squaw man," and for years lived in a country where the face of a white man was seldom seen. About 1875 he became known to the few early settlers of eastern Washington. At that period he was proprietor of a cayuse pack train engaged in transporting supplies from Walla Walla and other points which were then supply depots for the unsettled region embracing northern Idaho and northeastern Washington, to miners and prospectors scattered through the mountains, and to surveyors who were then exploring the country, seeking a feasible route to the seaboard for the Northern Pacific railroad. Condin had made frequent trips through the Big Bend country to the mines of the north. It was one day long ago, that he first saw the site where Wilbur now stands. He stood on the dividing ridge south of town, and saw the clear waters of the Little Ridge, fringed with a luxuriant growth of aspens, willows and Cottonwood, meandering down the valley and off through a natural meadow to the beautiful lake nestling among the rocks a mile below. Then and there he resolved that at some future time he would call this charming spot his home, and he frequently made it his resting place during long and toilsome journeys.
At length, probably about 1875, becoming wearied of his nomadic life, he pitched his tent in this beautiful valley and made it his permanent home. The land at that time was
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unsurveyed, but he staked off his claim, built a cabin, disposed of his pack train, invested all of his available cash in horses and cattle and branched out into the stock-growing business. Later, when the land was surveyed, Condit made his filing, and afterwards made final proof and acquired title from the United States government to the land on which is now located the town of Wilbur. It was at this time that the government made the mistake of engrossing the papers and land patent under the name of "Condit." According to the rude forms of marriage practiced among her tribe he took to himself an Indian maiden. His frontier ranch, marked on the early maps by hardy explorers as "Wild Goose Bill's Place," was the ground occupied by the site of the present flourishing town of Wilbur. Here, for many years, he continued to reside with his Indian wife by whom he had three sons. A mass of sensational stories have been floated concerning Condin's wild life. It has been asserted that he had killed innumerable Indians "for interfering with his domestic relations." His killing record, however, embraced five Indians, shot in a running tight while resisting arrest. The story which has been repeated many times, that he killed the man who first dubbed him "Wild Goose Bill," is untrue. The following, his last will and testament, made just prior to his tragic death, is of historical interest:
Condin's Ferry, January 19, 1895. Know all men by these presents that I Samuel Wilbur Condit being in my right mind & knowing that life is uncertain do make my last will and testament on this day of our Lord January the ninteant eightten hundred & nity five it is my desire to give my son george Conduit my propperty known as Condine fery & to will & bequeath to my son Willey Condit five dollars & fifty cents the balance of my property real & pirsinel to my cripple son Charles excepting my interest that myself & R. J. Reave Hold jointly on setcion eight I will my interest on the same to R J Reaves & his Heirs & assigease I alsor appoint E J Reave my Adminesterater & executor without bonds stipulating that he see to my cripple son Charles & that he is well taken care of as long as he Lives my propperty known as the Mitchell place I bequeath to R. J. Reaves provided he pays the Mortgag on the same it is my desire that R. J. Reaves rents my property & aplyes the rents to the maintence of my cripple son Charles in case of His Death it is my desire that my sole property shall he aplied to the School fund of Wilbur, & also that theree Be enoughf sold to pay all of my Just debts. Hoping & trusting that R J Reaves will act in good faith I revoke all former wills up to this date witness my Hand & Seal(My Hand & Seal)Samuel Wilbur ConditWitness George G JamesBurt D. Woodin
"Wild Goose Bill" had his good traits, but, raised in a rough school, in which self-reliance and the unbounded freedom of the frontier that inculcates the impression that might makes right, endow a man with unconventional characteristics that would not he regarded as entirely the pink of propriety. Bill, had, also, his weaknesses. Condin located and lived on the land now embraced in the townsite of Wilbur. He also owned a ferry on the Columbia river, that was operated for many years, and other collateral that made him a comparatively wealthy man. There were no white women in the land when Condin first settled therein, and he took unto himself an Indian wife. By her he had several children. Later in life he married another squaw and a child was horn that developed into a helpless cripple. In his later years the whole affection of the old man was concentrated in this deformed, epileptic, speechless offspring. His intense love for the unfortunate child was a redeeming feature in the rough, frontiersman's life. The manner in which S. W. Condin secured the cognomen. "Wild Goose Bill," is told by the Lincoln County Times:
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It is said that Mr. Condin received his picturesque nickname when he was a callow youth of twenty summers. The Big Bend country was, as yet, unsettled. Condin was out on a hunting expedition and he wanted game. Suddenly he espied a large flock of geese on a little rivulet. His heart stood still. Cautiously he crept closer and closer to the unsuspecting quarry. The geese rose and fell on each little ripple, and with the proverbial stupidity of geese imagined themselves in safety.The huntsman drew nearer and nearer.Suddenly the sport commenced. Condin began shooting, and in a short time had bagged the entire flock. Then a woman who had settled on a neighboring Clearing, approached and viewed the scene of slaughter.What business have you killing my pets? she yelled in a voice pitched in C alt.The story got out, and the man who mistook a flock of tame birds for wild ones, wore the original title, 'Wild Goose Bill,' until his death. The virago was appeased by the payment of several pieces of silver, but the incident came down from mouth to mouth to the present generation.
Many years previous to the advent of white men in the Big Bend country it is known that Chinamen carried on placer mining along the upper Columbia river. These Celestials have worked the gold from the sands of that river ever since, in a primitive way and undoubtedly fortunes have been secured. One of many spots visited in the early days by the Chinese was in Lincoln county, opposite the mouth of the Sans Poil river.
Sam Wow, an aged Chinaman and a pioneer miner of the Columbia bars, in this vicinity, is now a resident of Wilbur. Sam claims to have first done placer mining here about 1864, and travelers through the country ten years after this date state that he was engaged in work there. Sam is uncertain of the exact date when he came to the country, but he remembers that he was ushered in by the worst snowstorm that ever visited the locality. According to his description any storm of later years would certainly have to take second place in the climatology of Washington. He came in from the east and states that in places the snow was ten feet deep and the cold terrible. As a consequence of that first trip to the Columbia placer fields Sam Wow lost the first joint from each one of his ten fingers, and. also suffered the separation between himself and several of his toes. But he was not to be deterred by such a calamity. He had entered upon a prospecting tour which included a visit to the upper Columbia, and thither he went. Age and continual stooping while shoveling the gravel from placer beds have imparted a permanent twist to his body; his manner of walking imparts the impression of an animated corkscrew.
Captain John McGourin, an early settler of Lincoln county, came about 1875.
June 14. 1877, Chief Joseph's band of Nez Perces took up arms, their field of operations being Camas Prairie, in Idaho. The United States government at once proceeded with vigor to suppress the uprising, but the troops did not arrive in time to prevent the murder by Indians of many defenseless and inoffensive settlers. Reports gained currency that the Palouses, Couer d' Alenes, and Spokanes had gone on the war-path, and that Chief Moses was on his way south to join the hostile warriors. A general feeling of uneasiness prevailed among the settlers of eastern Washington. Then the people were thrown into a panic and the wildest and most ludicrous excitement prevailed. Utterly unfounded rumors of massacres and depredations were passed from person to person and, as is usual in such cases, they lost nothing of their hideous aspect in the course of their travels. In Whitman county fear assumed the pro- portions of a panic. Reason appeared to have temporarily surrendered her citadel and wild fancy ruled. The stock, which at the time happened to be in corrals, were left without food or drink, while the animals fortunate enough
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