WATERVILLE.
Waterville, the county seat and metropolis of Douglas county, is situated in the northwestern part of the county, distant about nine miles from the Columbia river to the west. It is an inland town, 28 miles east from Wenatchee, the nearest railway point. Daily stages run from Waterville to the steamboat landing on the Columbia river, and also to Coulee City, the western terminus of the Central Washington
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railway, 45 miles to the east. Waterville is 2,600 feet above sea level. The townsite is as lovely as one could have selected within this scope of the country, the table lands gradually sloping to the south and affording easy and natural drainage to the place. Says the Big Bend Empire, published at Waterville:
Talk about scenery! What's the matter with the view that may be had any day from Waterville? To the south skirt the Badger Mountains. Farther away to the west extends the Cascade range with their snow-capped peaks rivalling one another in their ambition to reach the skies. As the eye follows along to the north it will see Mount Chelan, the home of every wild animal known to a north temperate zone climate, and a landmark for all tribes of Indians to the northwest. Next the beholder views the rugged mountains of Okanogan county, their bosoms filled with gold and silver, and rivers glistening with mountain trout. When this interesting panoramic view has been satisfied let the eye rest on the great expanse of rolling prairie of thousands of acres, here and there dotted with the cabin of the immigrant, where peace, happiness and contentment dwell as nowhere else in the Big Bend.In the midst of this scene is the mighty Columbia river winding its way through the center of diversified resources as though to serve as a medium to float the overproductions of the country to the sea. When an observatory has been erected at Waterville no city in the world can excel her in extent and variety of natural scenery.
The quarter section of land which is now known as the original townsite of Waterville and Green's First and Second Additions, was taken as a squatter's claim by Stephen Boise in 1883, the year that witnessed the arrival of the first settlers to Western Douglas county. At this period the government had not accepted the survey of this part of the country and Mr. Boise could only secure a squatter's right. A private survey had been made, however, and this was, practically, the same as the one afterward made by the government.
Here Mr. Boise built a log cabin, a log barn, and dug a well. He passed the winter of 1883-4 here and the following year fenced about fifteen acres of land where the court yard is now. Ten acres of this land he had under cultivation. These pioneer buildings have long since been removed, but the place where stood the cabin is marked by a depression in the ground which served Mr. Boise, and later Mr. Greene, as a cellar. They were located near the center of the quarter section, the cabin being just south of what is now Walnut street; the barn near the Big Bend Hotel and the well being in the middle of Walnut street.
In the summer of 1883 H. N. Wilcox came with the vanguard of pioneers to the western portion of the Big Bend country. They settled on the quarter section of land just north of the Boise quarter, and what is now Wilcox's addition. Mr. WiIcox remained on the place during the summer and fall. He then returned to Cottonwood Springs (later known as Davenport) to pass the winter. It was currently reported that Mr. Wilcox had abandoned the place, and the following spring the land was "jumped" by Howard Honor. The outcome of this act was told by Dr. J. B. Smith, one of the pioneers of the Waterville country, in the first
issue of the Orondo News, in July, 1889:
issue of the Orondo News, in July, 1889:
In the latter days of March, 1884, we met Howard Honor hauling a load of lumber from Nash & Stephens', Badger Mountain, saw mill. We were invited to get aboard and go out with him to 'Jumpers' Flat', (now the site of Waterville), as he had jumped the ranch of H. N. Wilcox. * * .* We helped Mr. Honor put up a cabin and stopped with him at the ranch of Mr. Charles Hall, Within a few days Mr. Wilcox pulled in to occupy his ranch, and current report of those days said there was a parley between the Wilcox and Honor parties in which the use of Winchesters was proposed, but reason prevailed and Howard Honor
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retired from the contest and took up his present ranch. It is worthy of mention that in the early days of the settlement, although the country was, practically, without officers, or law, breaches of the peace very seldom occurred. This speaks volumes for the excellent character of the early settlers of the Big Bend.
The building of a town on the location of the present Waterville was conceived by A. T. Greene, who is known as the "Father of Waterville." Mr. Green first came to the Big Bend country in 1884. Land in the western Big Bend was then unsurveyed, but in the spring of 1885 Mr. Greene came out from Davenport and purchased the Boise claim. During the summer of 1865 he remained on his claim and sowed a crop. It was during this period that he decided to build there a town. To the writer Mr. Greene has stated just how there happened to be the town of Waterville, and the circumstances which combined to bring about the founding of a town in a country which at that time, certainly, was not very promising. Ever since childhood, when Mr. Greene lived with his parents in New England, his ambition had been to either engage in literary work or to become the founder of a city. These ideas clung to him when he had arrived at manhood. When first he came to the western Big Bend it was not with the intention of carrying out his early dreams, however. But this identical idea came strongly upon him one night, during the summer of 1885, as he lay by his hay stack, where he slept during the heated term. Here he was in possession of a claim to which he hoped some day to secure a clear title. Why not lay out a townsite and realize his ambition? Stranger things had happened than the building of a town in a new country like the one in which he had cast his lot. But Mr. Greene did not at once reveal his plans to his neighbors, yet from that time out the founding of the town of Waterville was assured.
During the month of June, 1904, the writer enjoyed the pleasure of a drive in company with Mr. Greene from that gentleman's ranch, four miles northwest of Waterville, into the city for which preparations for building had been planned just nineteen years previous. As we arrived at the summit of an elevation, and the beautiful city of Waterville burst into view, and the "Father of Waterville" pointed out the various landmarks, reminiscences of the early days, it certainly must have been with a feeling of pride. Where nineteen years before he had lived, the sole inhabitant, he now gazed down upon a little city of 1,000 people; a city of which he was the founder and a city whose welfare has ever engaged his best attentions.
Mr. Greene returned to Davenport in the fall, and in November, 1886, he was married to Miss Dell Turner. Immediately upon the arrival of Mr. and Mrs. Greene plans were made for the platting of a townsite. Being unsurveyed land it was necessary to lay it out as a government townsite.
A few days after their marriage Mr. Greene and his bride had started for their new home. The possessions of the newly married couple consisted of a span of horses, a second-hand wagon, a supply of provisions and a firm determination to build a city on the young husband's land. Waterville at this period, the fall of 1886, consisted of Mr. Greene's log cabin, and what was a rarity in those days, a fine well of water.
Mr. Greene interested J. M. Snow, a surveyor, in the building of a town here, which should become a candidate for county seat honors. Mr. Snow surveyed the townsite and these two gentlemen laid their plans for securing inhabitants for the town, and, incidentally, the county seat. The settlers in the immediate vicinity of the proposed town at this period were A. T. Greene and wife, Harmon Wilcox, H. N. Wilcox. J. M. Snow, James H. Kincaid, wife and three children, Al Pierpoint, Morris
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Buzzard, John Buzzard, William Wilson, John Barrowman, Arch Barrowman, E. A. Cornell, James Melvin, Frank Silvea.
In October, 1886, Mr. Greene relinquished 40 acres of his ranch to be used as a government townsite. If this action had not been taken by Mr. Greene at that time, it is doubtful if Waterville or a town by any other name would be in existence there today. It was proposed to build a town that would become a candidate for county seat honors. The town was named Waterville in consideration of the fine well which was a sharp contrast to the dry well of Okanogan, the county seat. There is said to be nothing in a name, but there was something significant, in the naming of this town. People in the neighborhood for several miles around would come to Mr. Greene's place for their supply of water and his ranch began, at an early day, to be called "Waterville." And yet visitors to the capital of Douglas county marvel at the name applied to a town which is miles from water, other than wells. The town was platted by a board of trustees. Following is the dedication of the Waterville townsite:
Territory of Washington,County of Douglas, ss.Know all men by these presents that we, John Brownfield, James H. Kincaid, and Judson Murray, trustees, all of Douglas County, Washington Territory, desiring to locate a townsite under the laws of the United States government, governing the location of towns upon the pubic lands of the United States, have caused to be surveyed and platted upon the northeast quarter of the southeast quarter of section 21, in township No. 25, north of range 22, East Willamette Meredian, W. T., in the county of Douglas, the town of Waterville as herein shown. And that we hereby dedicate to the use of the public forever the Park Square and all streets and alleys herein shown; also that we hereby dedicate to the county of Douglas, to the town of Waterville, to the Free Masons, to the Independent Order of Odd Fellows and to the public schools, and to their successors, assignees and trustees forever, those several tracts respectively marked for them on the herein plat and map. Witness our hands and seals this 26th day of October, A. D., 1886.John Brownfield,James H. Kixcaid,
Judson MurrayTrustees.In the presence of Emily D. Brownfield and J. M. Snow.
To the town of Waterville additions have since been platted -as follows: Greene's First Addition, December 22, 1888, by A. L. Greene. Greene's Second Addition, February 20, 1889, by A. L. Greene. Kincaid's First Addition, February 25, 1889, by James H. Kincaid. Walter's First Addition, February 26. 8880, by William Walters. Park Acre Addition, August 26, 1889, by H. C. Thomas, Attorney in fact for Enos A. Cornell. Cornell's First Addition, April 24. 1890, by E. A. Cornell. Cornell's Second Addition, April 24, 1880, by E. A. Cornell. Cornell's Addition, January 12, 1891, by E. A. Cornell. Walter's Second Addition, January 5, 1891, by William M. Walters. Walter's Third Addition, January 19, 1891, by William M. Walters. Eddson Addition, February 2. 1891, by David Orr, Gus Pagel, T. R. Busteed, J. B. Bliss, Walter Guson. Kincaid's Second Addition, January 26, 1891, by James H. Kincaid. Wilcox's First Addition, February 28, 1891, by H. M. Wilcox. Columbia Park Addition, March 14, 1891. by C. M. Stephens. Melvin's First Addition, April 2, 1891, by James Melvin. Kellogg's First Addition, November 28, 1903, by L. E. Kellogg.
The platting of these additions during the years 1889-91, many of them of liberal proportions, resulted in extending the town of
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Waterville over a generous territory. Illustrative of the extent of these plattings a story is related of a citizen of Waterville who appeared on the streets of Spokane one day. The gentleman from Waterville was accosted by a friend with the remark: "Well, I thought you belonged in Waterville; what are you doing here?"
"Oh," replied the Douglas county citizen, "I had to make a trip to one of our newly platted additions, and being so close thought I would drop in and see you."
When the Waterville townsite was surveyed by Judge Snow the only building on the proposed location, was the cabin of Mr. Greene. Until the spring of 1887 Waterville remained without improvements. That spring, however, a building was run up. Sometime previous a blacksmith. E. E. Stowell, had come to Badger mountain settlement with his tools and there located. Under the influence of Mr. Greene and other settlers Stowell located at Waterville on the new townsite. As an inducement to do this all the neighbors turned
out and hauled lumber to the townsite and assisted the blacksmith in erecting the first building in Waterville. This original edifice is still standing.
out and hauled lumber to the townsite and assisted the blacksmith in erecting the first building in Waterville. This original edifice is still standing.
The second building was erected, also, during the spring of 1887. This was put up by Isaac Newhouse for the ostensible purpose of being utilized as an office by Judge Snow. It was, however, subsequently utilized as a court house, Judge Snow occupying but a portion of the edifice. This building occupied the site where now stands the Piper brick store, on Walnut street. It was removed to another part of town and is now used as a residence. The same summer Mr. Newhouse erected another small building and put in a stock of goods, thus becoming the pioneer merchant of Waterville. Here Mr. Newhouse conducted business until the spring 1889. Mr. Newhouse had been the first to build his campfire on tbe present site of Waterville and to tread down the thistles for those who followed later. It was his money and his energy that contributed to a large degree to the present success of the town. Mr. Newhouse died near Waterville, February 12, 1901.
Following the platting of the town the embryo city at once waged a warm county seat contest an account of which will be found in the current history chapters of this work. Judge J. M. Snow did much of the head work that secured an early boom for the town.
The removal of the county seat to Waterville, which was accomplished on May 3, 1887, did not create any undue excitement. While Waterville had secured the honor of being the county's capital, it was without a postoffice. It was not within the province of the board of county commissioners to legislate the Okanogan postoffice to Waterville, and for some time following the removal of the records Okanogan was a town with a name only — and a postoffice. To this postoffice it was necessary for the county officials to go for their mail. Some people had their mail directed to Badger postoffice. The official trip for mail was made by Auditor R. S. Steiner on horseback, once or twice a week. Of course this plan was quite unsatisfactory. But in December, 1887, a postoffice was secured for Waterville and A. T. Greene was named as postmaster. In point of fact Mr. Greene was the only bona fide resident of the new town, and legally entitled to hold the office. The county officers who constituted the balance of the town's population were all residents of other places in the vicinity where they were "holding- down" claims. Auditor R. S. Steiner was made deputy postmaster and one corner of his office was set apart as the postoffice. This condition of affairs continued until the spring of 1888. Then Rogers & Howe opened a mercantile business and the postoffice was taken in by them, Mr. Howe becoming postmaster.
During the fall of 1887 George Bradley came to Waterville and erected the first
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permanent building, and one that was, certainly, pretentious for that period. The upper story was arranged for a public hall, the lower portion being utilized for store purposes. But it was not occupied in this line until the spring of 1889. The building was completed Christmas, 1887, and was dedicated by a grand ball, the first ever given in Waterville. Following this event the sale of town lots became quite brisk. Preparations were made for lively times in the spring and the results fully justified the preparations.
Speaking of these pioneer days the Big Bend Empire of date January 30, 1896, said:
Mail in those days (1887-8) was received at odd times from Spokane, about 150 to 160 miles by stage line east, and from Ellensburg, 75 miles across the Columbia and over the Kittitas mountain to the southwest. Provisions and supplies of the settlement were freighted from these points at rates ranging from $40 to $60 per ton. Flour, bacon, feed and grain brought enormous figures. Few luxuries were then known to pioneer's table; necessaries only were handled by the one grocery shop, (Newhouse's), and the want of these at times — flour, meat, salt and lard, the writer recalls, threatened periods of famine, forcing the settlement to halt rations, while the arrival of wagon trains was awaited from the far away stations.
The Empire states that in the spring of 1888 only eight buildings could be found on the Waterville townsite. This condition of affairs did not long continue. Building operations began and in a few short months Waterville was a town of some size. Nearly all branches of business were represented. Fred McDermott, who came to Waterville in the spring of 1888, describes conditions prevailing in the little town at that period as follows:
The writer well recalls that even then there were but few prairie cabins and no fences beyond a distance of six or eight miles from the embryo city of the county seat. Waterville was only a hamlet, and on the day, particularly that we arrived after a long journey across the southern deserts from the Dalles, in Oregon, there were but two stores in operation and neither of these had on hand as much as a side of bacon or a sack of flour. In fact a temporary famine was imminent and want of bread stared the few citizens in the face until, luckily, an accidental outfit, laden with flour and meat for the Okanogan mines, appeared on the 'offing' outside the townsite, shortly following the writers arrival. It cost them at the rate of $60 per ton to get anything into Waterville from the railroad at Spokane Falls, Ritzville or Ellensburg, though it was not until the first of June of that year, 1888, that wagon navigation opened on the Kittitas mountain so as to admit of the import of supplies from that point. Spokane was about 150 miles distant by the freight road; Ritzville 95 and Ellensburg 75 miles. The rush to the Okanogan, or Salmon river mines, was great at that time and for a year following there were scores of packing outfits going through Waterville every week bound for the north. Money was plentiful, too, in those days, and twenty dollar gold pieces appeared to he as freely circulated as the nickels are today. A marvelous development began that summer and continued into the next year throughout the whole country. Cabins sprung up all over the plains and during the fall and winter — the latter being remarkably open and mild — over a hundred large and substantial business and residence buildings were added to the city of Waterville.
July 4, 1888, was the first Independence Day celebration held in Waterville. The following account is taken from the file of the Big Bend Empire.
The people of the Big Bend may well feel proud of their celebration of July 4, 1888. It marks the era of a new and grand existence that has dawned upon the heretofore almost isolated region west of the Grand Coulee that is destined to become a great commonwealth. Although the day was made disagreeable by a
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heavy wind which made it almost impossible to go out of doors those who had the management of the exercises were not to be discouraged and the program was carried out almost exactly as arranged. At an early hour in the morning the streets were thronged with people and the town was beautifully decorated with evergreen trees and national flags. The procession started from Bradley Hall, and was of such imposing splendor as would have done justice to much older and larger towns. The Liberty Car gotten up exclusively by our enterprising citizen, Mr. G. W. Philbrick, was the admiration of all. Much praise is also due the ladies, Mrs. E. E. Stevens, Mrs. G. W. Philbrick, Mrs. Phillips, and Mrs. Harden, for their success in finding the 38 little girls for the Liberty Car.
The exercises at the grand stand were of more than usual interest as was shown by the marked attention of the people who were able to secure seats. Miss Eunice Derifield did herself credit for the excellent manner in which she rendered the Declaration of Independence. Orator Bradley acquitted himself well, as was indicated by the frequent bursts of applause. His speech was prefaced by interesting allusions to our own new country; then he reviewed the history of our government and the theory of our free institutions. He rose above political parties and interested his hearers with the grander thought of American liberty. H. Hilscher responded to a call from the G. A. R. boys and made an off-hand speech that was heartily applauded. His reference to the Rebellion and to those who fought on the other side was especially well received. Judge Snow, as president of the day, proved himself equal to this, as all other occasions, by his dignified bearing and many winning ways.
The vocal and instrumental music rendered by Miss Frankie Whaley, as organist, Mrs. Rounds, Mrs. Van Alstine and Messrs. Murray, Corbaley, and Clark, was one of the most enjoyable features of the day. The wind did not blow too hard to plainly hear the sweet notes of the organ in perfect time with the clear voices of the singers. At the conclusion of exercises at the stand the multitude repaired to dinner, after which the program of sports was witnessed, when dancing was commenced and was continued till sometime the next day. There were many strangers and new comers present and all agreed that it was the most successful and every way agreeable Fourth of July celebration they ever witnessed. The crowd in attendance was variously estimated from 1,200 to 1,800.
It may be justly said that the merchants of Waterville, during the infancy of the town, were devoid of one fault too common with the business men of nearly all new towns. There was no jealous rivalry among them. All were on friendly terms; all worked for a common object, the welfare of Waterville. The same is true today, there being few towns where such goodwill and unanimity of purpose prevail among the business men.
One of the notable improvements in Waterville during the year 1888 was the establishment of a brickyard by J. C. McFarland. He secured a contract for 75,000 brick in the town. He immediately set to work under all the disadvantages that confront such enterprises in a frontier country, but in July he opened his first kiln and produced a fine product. This enterprise was continued two years.
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